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Routes in El Malpais
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1096 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Moment's Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Breech Baby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crack of Heraclitus T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Easy Come, Easy Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icebreaker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Make Off-Width Great Again T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mt. Cosmic Debris T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mushroom, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Frontier T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Overdrive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rotten Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Screaming Yellow Yum-Yums T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Skull Cap T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strensuous Curve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Surfin' the Turf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sword of Cimmeria T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trudy Buns T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown V2 V2+ 5+ |
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Unknown V3 V3 6A |
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Unknown V5 V5 6C |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Baltz & Dahrling, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,115 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument
Details
Per the NPS Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations ("36 CFR"), section 1.5, ( nps.gov/elma/learn/manageme…) a permit is required for climbing within El Malpais National Monument:
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Description
A two pitch dihedral. P1: Offwidth and chimney for about 100 feet passing a large yucca en route. Belay off gear atop a ledge below an obvious difficult spot (5.9+). P2: Shinny/chimney the narrow section above ((5.10-), or undercling/layback right around a flake (5.10+). Both variations get you re-established in the chimney above. Continue deep into the chimney past a bombay roof restriction, then exit above it on a sloping ledge, finishing up the hand/fist/OW crack to the summit.
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