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Sword Ladder 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dane Schellenburg
Season: March to May
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Mike Dobie on Mar 8, 2016

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topo

Description 

Climb up the ramp with the trees growing out of it.

P1: Two ways to start this pitch. The left being a bit harder than the right. But head up to the tree and continue up the ramp being careful of loose rock. Scramble across the ledge to the right once you get to the second tree to access The HoneyComb Domb P1. 5.12+ P2. 5.13+

P2: Continue up the ramping feature above the second tree to the bolt anchor at the top of the cave feature.

Protection 

.3 to 4 Doubles


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Nov 11, 2016

I only did the first two pitches (to the second tree), but the third looked good. First pitch right crack is a great route on its own. Follow the left-trending finger cracks to inset hand-crack. Traverse left and pull up to tree anchor.

Second pitch is ledgy with lots of dirt, pebbles, and suspect rock to awful belay position off of shitty anchor (thin cord + single maillon).

The left variation of the first pitch felt harder than 5.8 grade (at least 5.9) but also fun. Short layback into kneebar OW/flake, easier to the top.

P1-R: ***, #.3-3, double .75
P1-L: **, #1-4?
P2: Bomb, #2-4, double 3
P3: ???

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