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Swoop Gimp or Be Dust 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3 [details]
FA: Barry Ward, Alan Humphrey
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 3,835
Submitted By: e Dixon on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Following the second pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


P1 (5.6) Right-angling ramp to bolted anchor.

P2 (C3) Climb steep red wall, left of the alcove to a hanging belay.

P3 (5.9 C2+) Continue up crack (C2+) to a bolt ladder that moves up and right to some bad hooks and a mantle move (5.9) that leads to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C3) Start with a right-facing/angling corner (C2) that ends at more bad hooks heading left to another right-facing corner. Climb the corner using blown out pin scars (C3) and then move back right to the belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P5 (5.9 C1) Starts off with more bad hooks that lead to a left-angling crack (C1). Past the crack is a chimney (5.9) that ends before a cool roof (C1). Belay at ledge with bolted anchor.

This is a big sandy ledge and a place to bivy.

P6 (C2+) Follow right-facing corner to a fun OW. Belay at the ledge with bolted anchor.

P7 (C2+) Leave the ledge using hooks (C2+) that lead to a crack (C1+) that goes to the big ledge with bolted anchor.

P8, P9 (4th class) Horrible hauling to the top.



- (4-5) sets of offset brassies
- (3-4) sets of micro cams
- (1-2) sets of nuts
- (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #3
- (1) #4 Camalot
- assorted hooks (Talon, Cliffhanger, etc...)


Located on a large buttress right of Moonlight Buttress, across the canyon from Spaceshot. Cross the Virgin River near Space Shot and head towards concave, pink face on the buttress.

Higher up the wall becomes a pillar with two dihedrals.


Head southwest towards Moonlight Buttress to pick up the Angel's Landing trail.

Photos of Swoop Gimp or Be Dust Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wow...that 2nd pitch is steeeeeep.  Ben Doyle lovi...
Wow...that 2nd pitch is steeeeeep. Ben Doyle lovi...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Swoop Gimp or be Dust from across the ca...
A view of Swoop Gimp or be Dust from across the ca...

Comments on Swoop Gimp or Be Dust Add Comment
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By Tortilla
From: Fakeville, USA
May 25, 2007

Went clean in spring 2005 to a couple of wall gomers (us), and probably a good number of times earlier than that as well. Try not to use the hammer, this is a route worthy of the challenge.
By Stiles
From: the Mountains
Aug 22, 2007

Yarr! Some rope monkeys from THE Valley did this mutha sans-iron in 3 1/2 hours! Lets keep it clean out here...
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 22, 2007

Easy there. The only reason it even remotely goes clean is from pin scars. Its pretty sketchy as a clean aid route, especially that second pitch. And folks using cam hooks will probably blow out the crack so its completely unusable. Sure, try it clean, but, don't be foolish enough to get hurt or killed on it.

Kinda makes me wonder, though. Just 'cause a classic aid route has gone free, doesn't mean folks should HAVE to free climb it. By the same token, just 'cause some super high end aid monkey (no disrespect to them fellers!) manages to do it clean, with some sketchy high end trickery, and maybe the same skills on pair with a 5.13 or so climber who can free climb Moonlight Buttress, should mean the rest of us hacks, who could do the route with one or two bomber pin placements, should stay away from the route, methinks. Probably deserves its own thread in the forum.

Followed it, not lead it. Even the pins fell right out, though. Man, that's a thin lead.
By bsmoot
Sep 28, 2007

"And cam hooks are a sketch idea in sandstone."

Yeah, camhooks are a bad idea. They flare the cracks in an unnatural way, and at a downward angle. At least with pins, as long as the rock is not too soft, or the crack isn't too thin, you can eventually use an offset nut.

Please don't use camhooks
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Feb 14, 2008

Alright, so this thing can go clean.
Anyone have a suggested clean rack?
By Dustin Wildermuth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 27, 2008

Here is a link to a good topo with clean climbing gear beta.
By Kurt Burt
Oct 26, 2009

Route goes clean really easily, I just soloed the route in 16.5 hours on 10/17/09 trip report on
Rack I took:
2 sets brass offsets
2 sets alum offsets
1 set DMM peenut (like big brass offset)
2 set stoppers (1-9)
1 set Lowe Balls (only used #2 once)
2 set alien
1 set offset alien
3 set cam to #1
2 ea #2 camolot-#3
1 ea #4-#5
2 filed bd grapple hooks
1 bat hook
This rack got me up the thing, I back cleaned some on pitch 3 and 4. Never felt like I was out there or anything. If soloing you can link 6 and 7 with a 60m but will not be able to haul it (big ledges I jugged with my bag on my back for the whole route) Have fun and the 4th up top sucks, I just free soloed it with ropes on my back then rapped back down in a straight line got my stuff and jugged out.
By Trevor
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jul 16, 2010

load up on the mid size brass for pitch 2...i think we had triple set..used only a couple of the smallest 1 or 2 sizes but many of the mid sizes. back cleaned much of the 2nd pitch...but it's not that bad...i did it in the dark wearing a plastic cast boot on my right leg! no lowe balls etc. similar to DS but steeper and thinner! sweet bivy if you do haul...but you will pay up top!

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