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The Double Clutching Wall
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11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 
Block Party T 
Checkin' the Oil T 
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 
Chronic, The T 
Comin In Hot T,S 
Crux Deluxe T 
Double Clutching T 
Double Helix T 
In a Blunt T 
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 
Rude Awakening T 
Super Chronic T 
SwitchBlade T 
Terminal Mocha T 
Thin Faith T 
Wolverine T 

SwitchBlade 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: J Unema D Bloom 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Oct 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Double Clutching Wall with topo line drawn on ...

Description 

SwitchBlade tackles two striking and distinct features in the middle of the double clutching wall. It begins with demanding technical climbing on a razor arete protected by bolts and finishes with a steep dihedral with a tips crack and deep gas pockets. A footledge halfway up provides a welcome rest between the two sections.

Location 

Begin on a large pillar-boulder just left of the Double Helix start

Protection 

Six bolts to ledge. Gear above ledge: cams from 00 c3 to #1 c4. Double 0 c3 and .4 c4


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By t.schwartz
Dec 20, 2015
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

This thing is heads up the entire way! The first move, the arete crux passing the last two bolts, and the overhanging dihedral make for a very difficult, technically demanding route. Watch the ledge when starting the dihedral, the climbing is hard right off the ledge. Hardest "12+" I've been on in awhile, very humbling! Great route!

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