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Swiss Miss 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pat Thompson
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 13, 2008

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Climb up the right side of the chimney on the outside of the blunt arete. Getting off the ground and established is quite tricky. After a few moves some better holds are encountered. After this a horizontal break is encountered allowing a nice rest, before the easier finish.

Probably a bit soft for the 12a grade, considered 11a if the backwall is used.


Far left side of Swiss Wall. Up the hill and left from White Gang Wall. To the right is an unknown 5.8 jug haul.


5 Bolts to Anchors

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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Downgraded to the established grade of 11a as not using all available features just seems silly.
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Oct 6, 2014

I disagree, there are many sport climbing areas where to earn the grade and in my opinion to do the climb you avoid using certain features or cracks. On Main wall you avoid stemming to the back wall on "Heart Shaped Box" and "Limestone Cowgirl". To me the 11a stemming way seems like the variation.

Also thanks for sorting the routes!
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for the thought provoking feedback. I avoid the back wall on Limestone Cowgirl but use it on Swiss Miss. To call one feature on while calling the other off is hypocritical and arbitrary. I suppose it is up to the individual how to approach each route.

I reverted the established grade to 5.12a.
By Alec Orenstein
From: Gallup, NM
Jul 21, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Definitely 12a without the back wall (or, maybe one might call it v4?). Fun route; good intro to the grade, since the crux is off the deck and the climbing up higher is easier (although still engaging and fun). Stick clip the first bolt definitely.

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