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Swiss Gentleman T 
Turkey's Crevasse, The T 

Swiss Gentleman 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2 [details]
FA: James Garrett, Seth Shaw
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Mar 31, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Swiss Gentleman on Turkey Tower

Description 

Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock simply says that this route ascends the "northeast corner" of the tower.
Since this is the descent route, we observed 2 belay/rap stations: 1 is a hanging belay about 100' up the route, the other is on a sloping ledge about 50' above the first.
The first pitch has pin scars at the bottom of the route, following a thin seam up for about 50'. The crack widens quickly to chimney size, and continues at this size for another 50 feet before becoming hand/fist sized, and passing through a roof. It appears to remain in the thin hands to fist range the rest of the route.

The route is shown in other photos, since it is the standard descent from the right (east) tower. For example:
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap.
Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap.

Location 

Ascends the northeast side of the formation.

Rap the route.

Protection 

1 set of friends with extra #2 - #3; a selection of pitons


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