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Unsorted Routes:

Swiss Cheese 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Season: 3
Page Views: 3,919
Submitted By: James Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Eric Relien on a lead of Swiss Cheese


Swiss Cheese was the first bolted line one encountered upon entering the canyon proper (before all of the new bolting). Generally speaking there is a pile of cheater stones at the bottom of the route to assist in the direct variation. The stones are there to overcome the overhang, and avoid tumbling into the hollow/cave below. These cheater stones may be considered a sage tactic by some, and in my humble opinion are more sketchy than pulling the move outright. The actual route starts in the corner (getting up the corner and over to the first bolt is the crux) to the right and traverses into the route. The route proper is slightly off angle and follows a line of great patina holds, that seem to define the phrase "great patina holds" - up the beautiful sandstone wall. This is a great route, especially for someone learning to lead.


4 Bolts to a pair of chains - a stick clip might be useful for the first bolt.

Photos of Swiss Cheese Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian on Swiss Cheese
Brian on Swiss Cheese
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of  swiss cheese... smear and reach!
The crux of swiss cheese... smear and reach!
Rock Climbing Photo: Swiss Cheese!
BETA PHOTO: Swiss Cheese!
Rock Climbing Photo: Lindi on her first sport lead!
Lindi on her first sport lead!
Rock Climbing Photo: The alternate start is in green and the first bolt...
BETA PHOTO: The alternate start is in green and the first bolt...

Comments on Swiss Cheese Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 18, 2006

As fun as I remembered. The top anchors looked a little rusty and sketchy, but they held all 200 lbs. of me. Get on this thing.
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

Did my first sport lead on this and it was pretty amazing. Great patina holds and the moves just feel real good.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 13, 2007

I'd consider stick clipping the first bolt. The crux is basically going to the first, after which it's pretty cruiser edge climbing to the top. The huge pile of cheater stones used to help in getting to the first. The stones are gone, but it seems like the route was bolted for the "cheater start." So, stick clip it.
By Tradiban
Aug 12, 2009

Great route! The direct start looked pretty hard so we opted for the right hand start.

The chains looked pretty good today. There could be a need for replacement in a few years or so.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Apr 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this route is awesome, and easy to change climb to climb. a stick clip is mandatory, with a wicked fall being, well, wicked. there are many subtle differences if you climb slightly right or slightly left of the obvious line up the bolts, but they all are about 5.8 to 5.9 climbs. fun stuff.
By Doorbluff
From: Stevens Point, WI
Sep 14, 2016

The "new" first bolt is a spinner right now. It could probably afford to be tightened, but I am not sure what the recommended torque is on that bolt.
By Eman Li
Nov 26, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is definitely not an easy one to start off, and I would rate the starting to be at least a 5.10+ as it was very challenging to clip on the first bolt (if the route starts off from the right side of the crack). We attempted clipping on to the second bolt, but the holds were too sharp not decent holds, making it almost impossible to move on with the route. We did not enjoy this route despite all the raving comments, and would not recommend this for beginners.

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