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Swingline 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brad Metz and Ron Cotman
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Jplotz on Nov 28, 2015

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Description 

Swingline is a fantastic two pitch route that shoots up the middle of Upper Eight Mile Buttress. The first pitch is 35 meters of some of the best slab climbing I've ever done in the Icicle. The position is astounding with the immense North Wall of Mt. Stuart as your backdrop and Icicle road 2,000' below you.
It shows that Great care went into creating this pitch. Small to medium gear supplements the bolts. The moves are always a puzzle to unlock, and cruxes come at you in multiple waves, right up to the last few moves to the anchor.

Pitch two features mostly gear, with cruxy moves over two overlaps, with the second leading you to an exposed headwall crack to the top of the Buttress. The second pitch is a bit gritty.

I must say Swingline is one of my favorite routes up there. Thanks to Brad Metz for establishing this one!

A single 70m rope will get you back down easily. A 60m will leave you with some downclimbing on the second rap.

Location 

Upper Eight Mile Buttress.

Protection 

Bolts and gear to 3".


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