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Swingin' In The Rain 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson & Todd Anderson, 1993
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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This route starts with a crux mantle past the first bolt onto a large sloping ledge. Anyway you try it, it is a solid 5.11 move that has befuddled many a 5.12 leader. The real trick is avoiding the "Beached Whale Syndrome", flopping around until you slide off backwards. From the ledge, nice overhanging reaches between 5.10 jugs take you to the anchors.


Three bolts to a two bolt anchor.

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Sep 25, 2001

Omit the mantle, though fun, quite hard, heel hook the bad boy and stand up. But as the man said, don't pull a "beached whale". It usually doesn't work and you don't get props for style.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 2, 2001

Definitely a nice little boulder problem type route. After the mantle, there are jugs to the top. The mantle can be ommitted as mentioned with heel hook but what fun is that ? (kidding) do it how you can, but at least try the mantle for a second time. A neat line.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 31, 2008

FA - AN & TA July 1993.
By slim
Jun 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Went back and climbed this route again after doing it previously about 17 years ago. The only thing I remembered was the mantle and that I didn't really like the route. The mantle felt pretty easy this time, although I lost points for doing the 'beached whale'. I then put my break dancing skills to work (the worm, anybody remember that one?), and got up onto the ledge. Hopefully I re-earned my lost points with this display of technical proficiency.

The actual climbing on the rest of the route is kind of ok, although greasy. The bolts are old, the hangers look worse, and the runout to the anchors totally sucked. Greasy, awkward, and clipping the anchors off of a hidden portion of a hold. I didn't find the good spot until I had already clipped the anchors. You are a ways above your last bolt with the mantle block below you. Not a big fan of this one, probably won't ever do it again.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 10, 2011

Bunch of points for the worm, slim.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Aug 28, 2012

You can just boulder this route, too!


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