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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Swing Time T 
Te Dum T 
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Swing Time 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Ants Lemeets and Elmer Skahan, 1964 FFA, Stannard, 1968
Page Views: 1,498
Submitted By: lucander on Mar 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This climb intersects and shares a belay with the popular moderate Te Dum; consider avoiding it on busy days.

P1 Climb the crack up to a roof, clip the slings for pro and step right to a stance. Pull the roof out left (crux) to another stance, then continue up the broken left-facing corner system to a belay (75 feet, 5.10b).

P2 Up the corner and hand traverse left to a stance. Pull the roof at a finger crack (crux) to an awkward stance, then make a wild traverse right under the blood orange roof and exit to the top (50 feet, 5.11-).

Location 

Start: 15' left of Disneyland at at the incipient crack in a slab

Protection 

Rack to 2 or 3"


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By Nicola Masciandaro
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

P2 is harder than 11-; more like 11d, I'd say. A bystander noted that a hold has broken and my partner, who had done it years before, confirmed that. After first easy roof with finger crack, make a super cool move with heel and hands on a horizontal to reach up and far right to an incut flake, gain a slightly restful stance below the second roof, then exit right on small gear.

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