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Willy B
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Swing Time 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Oct 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: How we broke up the upper pitches of Swing Time. ...

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  • Description 

    I would give this route an S rating but both Rossiter and Roach did not.

    Whether you started the climb at the lower spacious ledge above the overhang or on the next ledge up. The goal is to reach a large block located at the center of the face. There is also a large tree close to the block. The pitches to reach the block are easy 5.2 but covered with lichen. After chimnying up the block, you will be confronted by a large, left-facing dihedral that ends in a large roof.

    The guidebooks recommend setting up the belay at the block, but as this made for a short pitch, we continued 40 feet up the dihedral and made a delicate unprotected 5.4 traverse left on pebbles to turn the roof on its left side. From there, a quick scramble down onto a ramp enabled us to set a belay on a decent crack (190 feet, 5.4). There is supposed to be a bolt here, but we did not see it.

    Climb up the ramp some 20 feet and overcome a vertical, 6 foot wall (crux) on the right. There is some pro at this point, but I wouldn't want to test it. The crux move deposits you back onto the East face. Once there, find a crack running up the center of the face and climb one more easy pitch to the top.

    We set up a belay at the crack and top roped the East Face route pitch (5.8S) that differs from Swing Time (see East Face route).


    Standard Flatiron rack up to a #3 Camalot. Small TCUs will protect the crux.

    Photos of Swing Time Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Around the 2nd-3rd pitch, heading up the slab, jus...
    Around the 2nd-3rd pitch, heading up the slab, jus...
    Rock Climbing Photo: This shows where to leave the ramp.
    BETA PHOTO: This shows where to leave the ramp.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Very cool summit.
    Very cool summit.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is the 5.7 crux off the ramp. The photo was t...
    BETA PHOTO: This is the 5.7 crux off the ramp. The photo was t...

    Comments on Swing Time Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2001

    An alternative way to finish this route is to continue up the ramp (rather than exiting right). The is easy but exposed since you are climbing above the south face. When you are below the summit itself, head up and then right to finish on the last few feet of the east face.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2002
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This route appears to be the same as "Dihedral" in Rossiter's book. Can anyone confirm this to be the case?
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2002

    I have always assumed this route was the same as Rossiter's Dihedral, but this is just from comparing the two guides (Rossiter and Roach).
    By JamesB
    Apr 25, 2006

    We climbed Swing Time and took the alternate route that goes up the south ramp almost to the summit before exiting to the right, onto the east face. The pro up the south ramp is thin and I wouldn't want to fall on it. There is a piton about half way up the ramp. I think this might be the piton mentioned in the Rossiter guide although it is further up the ramp than the guide had led to me to expect. The Rossiter guide had suggested belaying from this piton but we belayed further down where you first step onto the south face. The rap bolts are in good condition and one 60 m rope down the south face easily got us to the bottom.
    By Brian C.
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 21, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    Make sure you don't traverse too far up the ramp if you want to find the 5.7 way up. It is not very far up the ramp, just past a large dead tree coming up from below. Although the move is short, the gear is iffy, and a fall would be mega-bad news and likely onto your belayer. I got a seemingly decent offset cam in right at the crux, but I'm not convinced it would have held. After pulling onto the east face, traversing hard right will lead to a nice crack to protect your seconds before heading for the summit. No gear other than that on the last pitch. Fun times!

    EDIT: We did not find a single fixed piece on the route other than the summit rappel anchor.

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