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Swift Trip T 

Swift Trip 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Forkash and Matt Clarke 1980
Season: Winter is more pleasant, but beware of ticks.
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Hand jam your way up an obvious 5.8 lieback crack to a sandy ledge. From here, you can lower off a questionable bolt anchor, or you may continue diagonally up and left via strenuous finger-locks (5.11). The rock on the second section doesn't see a lot of ascents and is therefore on the chossy side, but increased traffic and (perhaps) a motivated bloke with a brush could turn this route into a classic pitch.

Location 

You can't miss this line; it's the obvious left-facing corner system.

Protection 

Hands to fingers. Bring doubles in the finger size if continuing past the first anchor. NOTE: there are bolts for the second section of the climb, but they are fairly old and rusted. If you intend to clip them, I recommend placing your own gear as well to back them up.


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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 18, 2009

I think a motivated bloke with a brush would just turn this into a sandy roof climbing. It's never cleaning up. Nice to look at, yes, but the rock here is, unfortunately, some of the worst in the area.
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
May 19, 2009

I agree, keep the brush at home. Sandstone and brush don't mix, and this one will always be a sand mine.

I rapped off that lone, questionable bolt about 17 years ago. It scared the sh#t out of me then, and I don't even want to imagine what it looks like now...
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 29, 2014

Heck no.

Replace away!

Someday I'll go back and climb that crack again. I remember really enjoying it.

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