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Swept Away 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980. Direct finish: Jim Waugh, 1989
Page Views: 1,369
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Pitch 1


A great line from the Ringle/Chace summer of 1980. The general consensus (from both Steiger's and EFR's guide) has been that the first two pitches are great (they are), and that the last pitch is not worth doing. The description here is mainly for the 2 money pitches.

P1. Thoughtful moves lead up to an obvious layback flake. This gives you a nice little pump before tackling the real estate above epic arch, which is steep with great sequencing.

2 bolt belay, with hardware to lower/rap off.

P2. Stuff some bombproof gear in a couple handcrack pods and fire the crux of pitch 2. The reward is a leftward traverse on good holds (If you head straight up after the crux, you will heading up Jim Waugh's direct finish, which goes at 5.12). Keep traversing up and left along a beautiful flake system. At the end of the traverse, it's decision time: head up into the obvious dihedral for the belay before the 3rd pitch, or continue straight left and down a bit along an exciting hand traverse that pass the Catch the Wave anchors, and end at Ma'adim's 2 bolt-belay. We did the latter.

From the top of Ma'adim's 2nd pitch, you need two ropes to get to the ground (I think), or 2 raps with 1 70m. If you do the 70 m method, there is some swinging required to snag the 1st pitch anchors.


Just after the crouton filter on Neptune, left side of the big, obvious Epic Arch.


Standard rack: stoppers (incl. small) and probably doubles of cams in the fingers to hand sizes, one #3 BD or equivalent.

Photos of Swept Away Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay on pitch 2
Clay on pitch 2

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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 15, 2013

Got on the first two pitches today and they were a blast. It is possible to rap after the terrific first pitch. Highly recommended.

The hardware looks like it is in good condition on pitch 1 - the bolt has an unusual-looking Mammut hanger but is in good shape. Extra 1"-2" cams were helpful on this pitch.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 19, 2015

Did the first pitch a few days ago after getting a rope stuck on Rapture. I found the direction of travel to be non-obvious past the layback flake. After some deliberation I decided not to head left (the proper way), because of the greenery growing out of the feature, and instead went right to a short handcrack that goes directly through the roof. Unfortunately this crack disappears into a lichen-covered face. Fell off, hung for a bit, then went left. The climbing out left is really cool, but the initial crack could definitely use some pruning/scrubbing (there's a handjam pod that felt like mostly dirt.
Fun story about the stuck rope: after finishing the first pitch of Swept Away I tensioned over to the stuck line and started jugging up it to untie the knot that we thought we left in. I found out about ten feet below the roof on Rapture that we hadn't actually left a knot. I fell somewhere around 30-40 feet and launched into a huge pendulum, all the way over the the first pitch of Arc of a Diver! A bit scary as an unexpected event, but my God was it fun!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 19, 2015

Never a good idea to jug a stuck rope. It is easy to walk around to the top and rap in. If you had another rope to climb Swept... you could have led Rapture again. Glad you didn't hit anything.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 21, 2015

You're right, it wasn't a great idea to jug the rope. But all's well that ends well, I suppose.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 22, 2015

Glad you are OK!

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