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Sweetwater Moose 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scarpelli
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: matt j hartman on May 19, 2013  with updates from Pamela Shanti Pack

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Crushing the crux roof! Photo: Blake McCord

Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>


"Bob Scarpelli testpiece"- Lander Rock.

That says it all.


Right next to Lunar Lander, above the Moonstone. This is the most commanding route in the area. Next to Cranner Roof Crack in how impressive it looks from the ground. I don't know if this has been repeated! Same grade as Bush Doctor!


Hands to Big Cams

Photos of Sweetwater Moose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof.
The roof.

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By Pamela Shanti Pack
Sep 11, 2017

I have confirmed with Bob Scarpelli that this is NOT Sweetwater Moose.

I red-pointed this spectacular pitch a few days ago thinking it was Sweetwater Moose ha! My partner, Devin Fin and I cleaned the route and established an anchor. We could find no information or any indication that this route had an ascent prior to mine.

Sweetwater Moose was indeed established by Scarpelli, but it is in a different location -- apparently near the Rubber Rose formation?

This pitch is an arduous 120' long. The crux low roof has ground-fall potential so be wary. The 100' of ultra-flared offwidth above is deceptively challenging. It appears low angle. It's not low angle. This is an offwidth test-piece in one of the most spectacular locations you can imagine -- well worth the 1500' slab approach, rattlesnakes and 4WD roads.
By Gee Double
Sep 14, 2017

There is nothing of real interest north of Rubber Rose Buttress except for the Frank Dusl bolted blank boulder, 5.12+. Other bits of a conversation that resulted in the recording of Sweetwater Moose, were also unable to be confirmed on the ground. The off width roof above the route "Spit" at the Great Stone Face was among the unconfirmed. It could be a last great problem for the Sweetwater Rocks, off-width climber. The little roof left of Roof of All Evil ? That's pretty small.
By Pamela Shanti Pack
Sep 15, 2017

Gee Double I was never able to find the actual Sweet Water Moose or We Were Soldiers once although I think I was close to the possible location. I'm returning to look again in a week or two. But I am definitely going to look for the roof near "Spit." Bob mentioned the Roof of All Evil to me (next to Bob's Roof) but says it was the easiest of the four offwidths he established out there? Meanwhile...I did successfully find quite a few rattle-snakes.

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