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Sweetie T 
Watchtower, The T 

Sweetie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lance Milo Cagle
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: Milo on Jun 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Doug at the crux of 'Sweetie' - Em belaying

Description 

This route is mostly a 5.6 dihedral, perfect for a starting leader. The climb starts on a dihedral slab that goes through a small roof down low at the 2nd bolt.(5.9) A few more slab moves get you to a great stance and easier terrain. Climb a beautiful 5.6 dihedral til it pinches off. Step out left and follow easy face (5.2)? past a bolt to the summit of Sweetie pillar. 2 raps with a 70m rope.

Location 

Follow hiking directions for PSOM slabs. Fork left just before reaching the toe of the PSOM buttress. Watchtower is on the next buttress directly left of PSOM buttress, and Sweetie is just uphill from that.
Also just uphill from Gold Wall.

Protection 

5 draws and a single rack up to #2 Camalot. Bring a few extra cams if your a newer leader. It's a long pitch.


Photos of Sweetie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Watchtower 5.9, and Sweetie 5.9-, from the toe of ...
BETA PHOTO: Watchtower 5.9, and Sweetie 5.9-, from the toe of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Watchtower 5.9, Sweetie 5.9-, and Freescale Semico...
BETA PHOTO: Watchtower 5.9, Sweetie 5.9-, and Freescale Semico...

Comments on Sweetie Add Comment
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By Steve Gomez
Oct 21, 2014

Climbed this last week, pretty fun little route, still needs a bit of clean up, but the climbing is fun!
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 1, 2015

Fun route, didn't read the topo, thought it was a bolted route so I barely brought any gear, which made it more fun, good job Milo.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

two star rating for the first pitch only. 2nd pitch is not worth doing imho. watch tower is far better overall. recommend replacement of biners at anchors with rings or musseys.

i think that the beginning leader might have a tough time making it to that first bolt.
By rickziegler
Jun 12, 2015

Feel free to go on up there and put mussy hooks on the anchors. However, carabiners in good condition are no less safe to lower or rappel off of.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 12, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Sounds good. I'll throw some rings on the P1 anchors next time I'm there.
Note that there's a distinction between rapping and lowering in terms of wear and tear on anchors. Not much of a factor on routes that aren't that popular, but a serious problem (even with steel hardware) on crowded lines (Gorge, Warming Wall, etc.).
By rickziegler
Jun 12, 2015

So do you just dislike the single biner system? Because a single biner IN GOOD CONDITION is no less safe than a mussy. While the number of times it can be lowered on is fewer than a mussy, I highly doubt that will be an issue on this route for many years. In fact I would argue that adding rap rings makes it less safe on a route in which people will be lowering from due to the fact that untying and retying through the rap rings introduces the possibility of error.
So then, if you have some kind of personal vendetta against single carabiners on each hanger, I suggest that you spend your own money to replace them with mussy hooks. But not with rap rings for the reasons stated above.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 14, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

personally i like rings better than mussys, but i've used both on my routes. if you want mussys, i'll throw some mussys on the int. anchor next time i'm up there.