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Lisa Falls Buttress
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Drag Queen T 
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Flee Flicker S 
Fleeting Glimpse S 
Hard Knocks T,TR 
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) 
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 
Lisa Falls Right T 
Neurotica T 
Rodan S,TR 
Safety Blitz T 
Sweep Left S,TR 
Sweet Spot T,TR 
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 
Where's Winky? T 

Sweet Spot 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,140
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Calvin finding the Sweet Spot

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This climb starts the same as Lisa Falls Left. But it angles across the face to the ledge below the bolt. Clip this bolt with a runner, and continue up the new seam/ crack to the anchors.


2 bolts are up top for an easy top-rope set-up, or for anchors. See Lisa Falls Left. 1 draw and a runner for the bolt. And I believe some small stuff can protect the upper crack.

Photos of Sweet Spot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: setting top rope
setting top rope
Rock Climbing Photo: Running it out to the top.
Running it out to the top.

Comments on Sweet Spot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 26, 2004

Again, a hole about 15 feet off the ground showed promise, but didn't pan out. The bolt with 2 runners and a brass nut just above the bolt was all the gear I could place on this one. Very Runout.
By Michael Haines
Aug 14, 2013

Due to rockfall, the placement Nathan mentioned can now be practiced from the ground-- this route is about 10 feet shorter now. Also, the bolt in the description is smashed flat.

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