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Sweet Sandstone
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Sweet Sandstone T,S 

Sweet Sandstone 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 597
Submitted By: kevinthediltz on Jul 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Sweet Sandstone climbs straight up to the crack.

Description 

This has technical slabbing on flaky crimps and sideclings.

Location 

This is the only bolted route on the wall. You can't miss it.

Protection 

5 bolts and a few cams up top unless you run it out.


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By Narwhal Lo
From: Durango, CO
Sep 26, 2013

One of the anchor bolts is in a hollow sounding section of soft sandstone. Bad rope drag at the top for lowering or top rope. Otherwise the route is runout at the top half where a fall would result in a long slide or hitting a sloping ledge. 5 bolts.
By knowbuddy Buddy
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This route is fucking sweet. Super technical face climbing leads to a crux move through a small bulge. It's a little runout after you pull the crux, because you don't have a good clipping stance for a minute. Amazingly fun route that you can't be too physical with.
By Bryant Foresman
Jun 19, 2014

Moves off the ground and through the vertical section are super fun! Be prepared for some crumbly, sandy and flaky sections, especially during the decently run out bit to the last bolt before the crack. 2 bolts for anchors up top, the right bolt is placed in slightly hollow/echoing rock. A bit awkward to belay from the top but probably best due to TR drag--someone will have to walk off anyway, or leave gear to rappel. It might be possible to find a somewhat comfy sitting stance to manage a direct belay. Watch out for two cooler-sized loose blocks just to the left of the anchor bolts as you come up and over to them. Walk-off back to the base of the route, if you head up and left from the anchor past the junipers and then arc around back and to the right down a slab and then back down a little gully.

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