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Sweet Polly Purebred 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith, as a sport route 2005. Parts were climbed previously by others using trad gear and pins
Page Views: 7,606
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (238)
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Blake on Polly purebred


Polly Purebred used to be a runout and neglected trad climb until a retrobolting modernized it a few years ago. It's proximity to the most popular 5.10 at Rumney (Underdog) guarantees heavy traffic.

Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.

Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.


Bomber eyebolts. The anchor is glue-in Wave bolts with drop in pigtails as of Sept 22/ 2015. Please make sure you TR off your own draws, not the pgtails.

Photos of Sweet Polly Purebred Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leesa negotiating the hanging corner on a mostly d...
Leesa negotiating the hanging corner on a mostly d...
Rock Climbing Photo: RB.
Rock Climbing Photo: jeff post crux on polly
jeff post crux on polly
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on a warm December day
Unknown climber on a warm December day
Rock Climbing Photo: The full line.
BETA PHOTO: The full line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alec, Stylin'
Alec, Stylin'
Rock Climbing Photo: Alec clipping from the rest.
Alec clipping from the rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: alec up high on Polly
alec up high on Polly
Rock Climbing Photo: jeff in the funkiness up high on the route
jeff in the funkiness up high on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole in the nice lock
nicole in the nice lock
Rock Climbing Photo: RB some mo'.
RB some mo'.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian takes his well deserved rest in the nook on ...
Brian takes his well deserved rest in the nook on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Winslow making the clip before the steep par...
Brian Winslow making the clip before the steep par...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian sticking the fingerlock on the lower crux......
Brian sticking the fingerlock on the lower crux......
Rock Climbing Photo: Yea, this route is fun! Go Nick
Yea, this route is fun! Go Nick

Comments on Sweet Polly Purebred Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2016
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 9, 2006

FA trad version (alternative start to Underdog): Mark Sprague (edit- It sounds like Bradley White did some version of this earlier , when the big block was still there)
FA sport version (added the top): Chris Smith

Jeez, I thought it protected great. I put gear in. The bolts are very welcome though, especially as you can now do the top. I pulled a refrigerator sized block out of the alcove before climbing it.
By L. Hamilton
Nov 10, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree, the old trad version had fine protection, and was "something different" amidst all the clip-ups. On the other hand, the new bolted finish is better.

If Rumney were a less specialized area that could still tolerate mixed routes, Polly Purebred might have been a good one: bolts where needed, especially on the finish, but no retrobolts at the overhang where solid trad gear can be placed.

Some of the other old moderates would likewise be more fun, but not necessarily more dangerous, if you had to carry and place a bit of gear to lead them.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

i like that it is now a nice independant line that gives me another warm up... and it does get me quite warm... i too would be happy to place some gear (people who know me know i love placing gear)...

on a side note this line feels 5.10c to me most days (not the 10b the guide book suggests)...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Any word on the condition of this anchor now?
By Todd Anderson
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2011

I didn't notice any glaring problems with the anchor today, but confess I wasn't actively looking for them, not having seen this page before.

On a side note, my friend (whom I was belaying) somehow missed the bolt on the first crux, and by the time he was at the next bolt he had the rope wrapped around his leg so he would have flipped over if he fell (I yelled at him about the rope, but I didn't see the crux bolt either). We didn't realize there was another bolt there until he finished the climb.

I guess the take-home message is that if Polly seems run-out, you're doing something wrong.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012

I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 24, 2012

More common is to fall while trying to get into the notch, which is a perfectly clean fall. Wedging yourself into the notch will give you a comfortable no hands rest. It's also quite easy to use a knee bar in that area too. I thought protection was right where you'd want it.
By S. Neoh
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Both anchors seem fine today.
Such a fine route. Good amount of exposure just after the crux and before the comfy ledge. The slab above was surprisingly technical for me with some holds "facing the wrong way". Nicely bolted, to be expected for a Smitty route.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sweet Polly gets a 5.10 b/c rating in the 2009 guidebook. That seems a wee bit low to me. Holding on to the undercling with the fingies and making that l-o-n-g lefthanded reach for the vertical crack hidden around the corner seemed more like solid 5.10c or even 5.10d to me. (But then it always seems that I'm on this climb went it's a bit wet.) Does anybody else out there think that this one is underrated? Or is it just plain old weakness?
By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nick, I am short (5'5") and that long move always give me pause. That said, I feel that SPP is as hard as Millennium Falcon but a tad easier than Peer Pressure. The route that I feel under graded is Romancing The Stone. It is always a struggle for me.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 4, 2013

Hey Nick,
sounds like you've had a rad tour of Rumney's classics recently. right on. The way you describe doing the crux on SPP indeed sounds hard. I think with some refinement through that crux you'd find it more appropriate at the grade. Similarly, there is an in obvious way to do the final upper section that makes it casual. I'll spare the inter webs my beta spray, but if you want an idea of another way to get through that crux drop me a PM. If you hang out at main cliff long enough I'm sure you'll be able to witness some better beta as well. best.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this and Know Ethics might be the best 10's at Rumney. Very high on the flow factor.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 4, 2013

Remember, Nick is quite old..even older than me .
By S. Neoh
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

How is that even possible? :)

No worries, Nick, we past-our-prime kind still find ways to get up steep Rumney routes .... but only because we are crafty. :) Eric, Coach Paul, SteveA, even Al(!) still show up and not embarrass ourselves too badly.
By Torie Kidd
From: NH
Jan 6, 2016

Today was my first time doing the route, so I'm not sure if this was new or one of those things that's always been that way... On the traverse to the right, after the crux, I found one of the jugs (it was kind of fin shaped) to be loose (I'm relatively light and it made a grinding sound and moved). My feet were okay and there were other options for hands, so I was able to get off it asap.

Either way, I had an enjoyable time on the climb.
By Graham O.
Aug 13, 2016

Wow certainly very fun! The upper part looks like it's a jug haul, but it's actually all slopers as if the rock wanted to make you work for it.

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