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Mill Creek Crag
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Big Dreams  S 
Bulge to Groove T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Deflator-Mouse T,S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Dirty Boulevard, The S 
Eye of the Tiger S 
Face T,TR 
Face (left of Freeway) TR 
Feline Antics S 
Freeway T,TR 
Groper S,TR 
Honey Pot S,TR 
Joint Therapy S 
Jug Haul T,TR 
Lou Reed  T 
Pit of Despair, The T,S 
Scantily Trad T 
Slot Machine S 
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 
Sweet Petite S 
Turning Point S 

Sweet Petite 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: RMWright, Dr. ABS, October, 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: well into October
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Donstamos. Thanks, Richard. I will be leaving some...


With apologies to Harald and Diane, this fully bolted route turned out to be an excellent addition to the Mill Creek Crag. Start at the base of an incipient seam on porcelain white, bullet hard, granite. Climbing on this gently overhanging wall is continuous and interesting throughout. Difficulties ease back to 5.11 after the fourth clip, but a hard move lurks right at the anchor. The crux climbing is in the first four clips, and two options exist. One can chase the seam directly (hard) or power out right to a right-facing dihedral (better and a couple of letter grades easier). I thought that the climbing on Sweet Petite was superb, a real kick to solve, and well worth the effort.

NB: We jumped on SP at the end of June on a very hot day, and the start felt much harder than when we climbed it earlier in the year. Clearly, the good friction obtained in cooler weather makes a big difference on this fine grained granite.


This route is 100 feet right of the Roof Rack. There is a newly cairned trail immediately across from the pullout used to access the Mill Creek Crag.


Nine draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Sweet Petite Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hermann.
Rock Climbing Photo: A great warm-up for the 5.12s to the left.
A great warm-up for the 5.12s to the left.
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect rock on Sweet Petite.
Perfect rock on Sweet Petite.

Comments on Sweet Petite Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 22, 2012

Nine draws in 60 ft seems like a lot of steel; however, there are couple of places where a fall could result in a nasty encounter. Sweet Petite is bolted so that there should be no need to stick-clip the start.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 4, 2013

Looks like a great line!
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 5, 2013

The rock is terrific, bullet hard, and clean.
By Dougald MacDonald
Jul 11, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Very fine route. The rock quality deteriorates in the top third, but it doesn't detract from the overall goodness. Staying right for the boulder problem at the bottom seems the only logical approach and is super-fun. Hang on for a burly finish until the final jug (above the anchor).
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 14, 2014

The two blocks above the chains were pulled off Sunday (July 13, 2014). I don't think they were ever a problem, but tagging the last hold above the chains feels a bit more comforting now. Pulling these off took double crowbars, both extended, and jimmying some rocks in the gaps just to tip them up enough to use the second crowbar to lever them off the cliff.
By slim
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This is a superb route that is very well-protected. The start looks like it is going to be hard as hell, but the feet somehow work out perfectly. Really nice job on this one, Richard.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 7, 2015

Thanks, Slim. Unexpectedly, Dumont can produce some pretty nice rock, well-featured and solid. I didn't know it when this route went in, but Diana Rogers had her eye on it as well with exactly the same idea in mind.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Jul 21, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Richard did a great job putting up climbs here, and this is one of the best. He's right, Diana Rogers has this climb down, nailed. We have been on it for a couple of weeks. Hugely fun and very challenging. The bottom moves are really balance intensive and thin. We go the direct approach, using the diagonal crack. Going out right put lots of rope off the line and puts a huge swing into a fall to the ground. Like many of the 5-10 routes on the crag, the toughest moves are off the ground to the first clip. So, if you aren't absolutely sure of yourself, bring a stick clip. Great climb, excellent moves, well bolted.

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