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Sweet Peas 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,244
Submitted By: Richard Fernandez on Jul 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Jon on Sweet Peas. Note: Guidebook says no sun at...


Crux is up high where it gets very steep and feet get thinner. A very pumpy route with shake-outs, stays very overhung to the chains. The exit moves can be intimidating, until you snag the "hidden" side-pull(s). Good holds through-out.


Second route from the left in the cave.


10 +- draws and biners at the top.

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By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 13, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Downrated to 11d and called a warm-up in recent guide, this thing is a long enduro haul with one very good rest up high. No move is harder than 10+...and then it throws a V4 crux at you right before you clip the chains. If rated on last 2 moves, this is a solid 12- in my opinion.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree. Jugs appear every time you start to get really pumped and there is the coolest resting holds I've found in Maple, right before the height dependent crux finish. Pegg's new book still gives it 12a while Knezek's says 11d. It felt a lot harder than the other 11d's I did. Regardless, it is amazingly fun!
By dbrown
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Great climb! I thought that this was the same grade as Groundwork at The Minimum Crag. 11c or 11d. Fun climb with harder routes to send to the right after doing this one.
By SM Ryan
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Grading might be height dependent. If shorter (I am 5'1") the crux at the top is reachy and much harder than any other 11d I have done. So I agree with 12a.
By alison McLennan
Oct 5, 2015

Grading is subjective but 12b to 11d is kinda whacked. I'm under 5ft. and found the last bit difficult.It was bright and I didn't see the last bolt until I was almost past it on crappy holds. For me Sweet Peas/Sweat Peas was harder than 49 at Minimum. But I live in a small twisted world where a 5.11 can sometimes be easier than a 5.10. Are ratings suppose to be for onsite? People often downgrade routes they've been on a lot. Maybe they forget that.

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