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Sweet Pain Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Cute Pain T 
Gambler, The S 
Glitter Grind Sister S 
Glitter Gulch S 
Lee Press On S 
Pain in the Neck S 
Pain Relief S 
Sister of Pain S 
Slave to the Grind S 
Sour Pain S 
Sweet Pain S 
Unknown New Route S 

Sweet Pain Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.15597, -115.43663 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,684
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nicholas Gillman on Feb 20, 2004
Forecast:
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Kevin Santos on "Sour Pain" Link - time...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Characterized by its swath of overhanging 5.11 climbing the Sweet Pain Wall is one of the gems of the second pullout and oh how sweet it is!. Though not as sheltered from the elements as its nearby cousin The Black Corridor afternoon shade makes for a pleasant outing year round (especially in the summer). Usually sought out for its stellar harder climbing more recent route development has opened the door to a handful of climbs easier than what one would historically find at Sweet Pain.

Getting There 

For those familiar with the area

Approach as per The Black Corridor but when exiting out from the slick rock area past the puddle break left(away from the The Black Corridor). The Sweet Pain wall can be found on the left side of the first gully you come to when moving away from The Black Corridor.

For those unfamiliar with the area

From the second pullout parking lot you will head down the one and only trail. Due to erosion control concerns the lower portion or this trail changes from time to time however your aim is the same ... the gravelly wash at the bottom. Once you are in the wash you want to head straight back into the canyon(directly away from the parking lot). Making your way past a few boulders/bushes the wash will eventually tighten between a small boulder and a bush. Shortly after this the gravel turns sharply left you however will continue to go straight.

Directly ahead of you should be an area of smooth slick rock pocketed with small pools , which depending on the season may or may not have water in them. Scrambling through this area is the hardest part of the approach but isn't overly difficult. About half way through the slick rock you are presented with a five foot wall that has a puddle below it (which usually has water in it year round). Pulling up and over this wall will let you walk across the top of the formation and out of the slick rock.

You should now be in a fine sand wash covered in short desert bushes. Slightly out to your right you should see the top of a heavily varnished chalk covered wall this is The Black Corridor. Out to your left you should be able to see a vegetated gully that runs all the way to the top of the second pullout. Head directly to this gully. Once in the gully you will want to gravitate toward the left edge finding yourself scrambling uphill and through another series of bushes a short way before reaching the unmistakable heavily chalked Sweet Pain Wall. (15 min total)

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',7],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sweet Pain Wall:
Pain Relief   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Glitter Gulch   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
The Gambler   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Slave to the Grind   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Sour Pain   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Sister of Pain   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Sweet Pain   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Lee Press On   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sweet Pain Wall

Featured Route For Sweet Pain Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber nearing crux

Sweet Pain 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Sweet Pain Wall
The namesake climb is pretty good (and soft for the grade?)... climb up very steep rock past some sharp incuts. Fun moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of Sweet Pain Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second Pullout Overview
BETA PHOTO: Second Pullout Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes at Sweet Pain. First bolts circled. Cheers....
BETA PHOTO: Routes at Sweet Pain. First bolts circled. Cheers....
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at Sweet Pain Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing at Sweet Pain Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Attacking the two 5.7 routes on the far right side...
Attacking the two 5.7 routes on the far right side...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wall on right
Wall on right
Rock Climbing Photo: Tree just left of Glitter Gulch. Photo by Joseph L...
Tree just left of Glitter Gulch. Photo by Joseph L...
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of Sweet Pain (middle right) in front of R...
The top of Sweet Pain (middle right) in front of R...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top Roping at Sweet Pain Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Top Roping at Sweet Pain Wall. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Sweet Pain Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 23, 2012
This is nice and shady when the rest of the 2nd pullout is in the sun in the afternoon.
By Nicholas Gillman
From: Las Vegas
Jan 26, 2016
Added a high res beta pic (the max MP currently allows). Cheers.
By Nicholas Gillman
From: Las Vegas
Jun 3, 2017
Added an updated high res beta pic (the max MP currently allows). Cheers.

Hopefully names for the two currently unknown routes at the far right end will surface and I will update the overlay accordingly.

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