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Unsorted Routes:

Sweet Nothings 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Harper and Edwards, 2005
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Christina kalb on Aug 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The perfect hands crack.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Sweet Nothings ascends a left-leaning hand crack (about 5.6) to a slabby arete. The arete is easier if you stem out to the wall behind. There is a bolted anchor.


It is inside Corridor 1.


Mostly hand sized pieces (#0.75 to 2) and a couple of small wires for the section before the arete.

Photos of Sweet Nothings Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney topout.
Chimney topout.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun crack on Sweet Nothings.
Fun crack on Sweet Nothings.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle, on the arete while cleaning the route!
Kyle, on the arete while cleaning the route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up the crack.
Halfway up the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the start of the route.
A view of the start of the route.

Comments on Sweet Nothings Add Comment
Show which comments
By nonames
Oct 19, 2015

Excellent but short handcrack. The last half of this route is unprotected and possibly warrants an R rating. Falling from just before the anchors will put you out of sight 30 feet down into a chasm.
By Anus Herder
From: Montrose, CO
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I opted to just chimney the last section, rather than climb the unprotected arete!
By K Gustafson
Jul 25, 2016

The arete can be protected with micronuts. You can take your sweet time placing them too, because you will be standing on a small ledge and leaning against the slabby arete. Definitely the way to finish this line.
By Zach Keeney
From: Cheyenne, WY
Jun 4, 2017

I also chose to do the chimney (awesome finish). There is zero protection, but the feet are good, and the chimney is no harder than 5.6. Super adventurous, great route!
By Wilburn
From: Cheyenne, WY
Jun 4, 2017

The chimney is a very fun way to end this climb.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 3, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Fun, perfect, hand crack. The path of least resistance up top is the chimney, which is quite enjoyable. There is no protection in the chimney, which I'd say is the "hardest" part of the route, so it warrants an R rating. Even though the chimney is runout and a slip would be devastating, it's not anything to worry about.

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