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Sweet NiBLitz 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Rui Ferreira, Paul Glover
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, autumn
Page Views: 1,859
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 8, 2008

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  • Description 

    This is the undercut climb on the red/brown panel right of Undertow, up on the ledge along the west face of the Slab. It begins with a hard boulder problem (***stick clip*** the first bolt or pre-rig while lowering off Undertow) and then climbs though a series of bulges on crimps, huecos, and pockets. The angle eases high, then you finish on crimps just right of an aesthetic groove to jugs and the anchors. The rock through the middle is a cool, hard-patina'ed (almost Dakota) sandstone, like you'd find on Mount Sanitas.

    You can stay right though the final bulge on the face (and you'll probably go to the handlebar to rest), but the moves are more fun on the left. You can also climb past the first bolt of Undertow then rail right to the second bolt on Sweet Niblets to make a nice 12a "warm-up": NibbleToe. A long runner or double draw on the seventh bolt will help with any rope drag.

    Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, the Flatirons FHRC, the Access Fund, Open Space and Mountain Parks, and OSMP ranger Rick Hatfield for helping keep climbing and new-routing alive and healthy in the Flatirons. Thanks again to Paul G for helping schlep the ropes, hardware, etc. up the hill, and to Rui for being part of sorting out the Beta and the clips.


    This is 10 feet right of Undertow, finishing 25 feet right.


    Nine bolts plus bolted anchors. Bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

    Comments on Sweet NiBLitz Add Comment
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    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Aug 17, 2013
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    I don't know about this route, the opening boulder problem is sharp, cryptic, and really hard for me. The moves aren't really cool but just hard. I think calling this 12d is a stretch, it feels significantly harder than most I've done. After the second bolt, the rock quality decreases, but the climbing gets better. I'd avoid this route till you have sent everything at The Slab.

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