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Sweet Little Hollywood Flake 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Aug 18, 2010  with updates from Jay Eggleston

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BETA PHOTO: The flake area with a #1 Camalot placed.

Be considerate MORE INFO >>>


Begin near a bushy evergreen below a ledge/bowl about 40' off the ground. Climb past two bolts to the ledge, exit the bowl past a third bolt and continue on easier (but totally runout) ground to the top.

The rock quality is less than desirable on this one, but the hardest climbing is in the best rock.


This is the leftmost reported route on the wall. It is just right of the fence line and starts near a bushy evergreen about five feet off the ground.


Three buttonhead bolts and bolt anchors. The anchor is three buttonheads (which look good for what they are) and one newer beefier bolt). Leave the trad gear in your pack. The only place to put in any gear is under the hollow and crumbly flake below the third bolt.

Per Jay Eggleston: the bolts were replaced in 2010 and are no longer buttonhead on the route or at the anchor.

Photos of Sweet Little Hollywood Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope is on the route, showing the bottom.
BETA PHOTO: The rope is on the route, showing the bottom.
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor. It is no longer buttonhead bolts.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor. It is no longer buttonhead bolts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt at the flake. Photo by Blitzo.
Matt at the flake. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Locker on "Little Hollywood Flake". Phot...
Locker on "Little Hollywood Flake". Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Clark into easier terrain on SLHF, Jazz Dome.
Matt Clark into easier terrain on SLHF, Jazz Dome.

Comments on Sweet Little Hollywood Flake Add Comment
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By James
From: Lakewood, CO
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

There is a decent runout between the second and third bolts (perhaps 25 feet). I was able to place a #1 Camalot in a crack on a ledge approximately halfway between the bolts. I used a stone to clean out the dirt. Felt much better knowing I would not ground if I fell off the loose rock in the dished out area going to the third bolt. You can also get a #3 Camalot in a flake to the right about 10 feet below the third bolt, but the #1 is better.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 23, 2015

Definite groundfall between the 2nd and 3rd bolt if you blow, but it is over easier ground. The flakes that would take gear likely will not hold a fall anyhow so as the description says, leave the gear behind unless it makes you feel a little better knowing there is a useless piece of metal under you. The rock around the flakes is a bit friable, so be careful what you step and pull on. If you're head is in it, this is not a bad route, and getting to the 3rd bolt is some of the easier ground on this route. Also, head to the anchors to the left instead of the 3 bolt anchor waaaay over to the right (about 50-60 foot runout getting to that anchor) as a 70 meter rope will get you the ledge with the small tree, just barely. Heading to the right anchor you will not be able to reach the ground with a single 70 meter rope.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 30, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

The worst rock is in easy climbing. After the last bolt, it is a long way to the anchors. The crux seems to be above the little tree and small ledge at the bottom.

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