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Sweet Jane 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: J. J., Jane Maurer - 2004
Page Views: 2,731
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (216)
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Chris on lead at Bruise Brothers.. Red River Gorge...

Private Property MORE INFO >>>


Formerly one of the few interesting trad lines at Bruise Brothers, Sweet Jane has now been retrobolted as a somewhat less remarkable sport route.

Follow a somewhat broken and nicely-featured dihedral up to a short left-leaning hand crack toward the top. Pull the crack and finish at the anchors under the big roof.


Starts just left of Hey There Fancy Pants. Rap from the anchors.


Bolts, bolted anchors.

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By Adam Beck
From: Nashville, TN
Jan 21, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Put a half-inch to inch-sized piece in low, clip the bolt, then put a two-inch piece in the crack.
By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Misread the guidebook, and thought I just couldn't see the upper bolts. Makes it PG13 at least if you are like me and run this out. But that was all on me. Nice little climb though to warm up.
By Jon Marek
From: Sioux Falls, SD
May 24, 2010

Did this climb 5/17/10. Looks like it has been bolted. Also there is a new line of glue-in bolts to the left which is the same grade.
By Jody Koplo
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 2, 2010

Talked to Rick. Apparently people kept mistaking this for a sport climb because of the single bolt. Someone got hurt, so the whole route got bolted.
By Jeff Christbaum
From: Muskego, WI
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

In 2011 this was my first sport lead climb, and I really enjoyed it. The bolts where placed perfectly, in my opinion. Great holds at each spot, perfect for a new leader. I did the route a few more times early this year and it was still just as fun.
By Mike Gehle
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This was my first ever sport lead outdoors. I loved it! With my limited skills, it was challenging enough to keep me very focused, but didn't cause me to cry & soil myself (which is always a possibility). Great route!!
By PatrickBecerra
From: Hazel Park, MI
May 6, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route has a few of the nice, big holds X'ed off. If you knock on them you can hear how hollow they are. The moves through this section are a bit harder when you don't get that one nice, fat flake up towards the middle.

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