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Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
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Cheetah T 
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Date With Kate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
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Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Siesta T 
Split Decision T 
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Sweet Jane Variation T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Sweet Jane Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,468
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (111)
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BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a). Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall. Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other. This is the start to Tarzan.

P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.


Standard Rack. Mostly the gear is finger and small hand sized.

Photos of Sweet Jane Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Sweet Jane
BETA PHOTO: Start of Sweet Jane
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines
Rock Climbing Photo: Another beautiful day in the Wasatch...
Another beautiful day in the Wasatch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the beautiful Sweet Jane cracks on a magn...
Enjoying the beautiful Sweet Jane cracks on a magn...

Comments on Sweet Jane Variation Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 26, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pitch 2 has 1 piton in the upper crack
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The route can easily be climbed in one pitch. A few extra finger-to-hand-sized cams are useful if you do this. The crux is at the starting corner.
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Mar 13, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy to set gear on.This was my first trad and first lead (pitch 2). Also a great way to setup a toprope for Cheetah pitch 2 if you want to practice some great friction climbing.
By lunabloomgirl
From: North East Washington
Aug 26, 2010

Fun crack. Good for small hands!
By Thumer
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2015

We did this route as an approach to Tingey's Terror. We got rained out once we got up to Tingey's, but I thought this was really fun route even by itself.

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