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Kimball Canyon Crag
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Sweet Dreams 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eric Berghorn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Eric Berghorn on Jan 21, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Routes from left to right 1. Sweet Dreams 5.10a 2....

Description 

The first bolt is located in an alcove about a 25 foot 3rd class scramble up from the ground. The belayer and climber should carefully climb up to belay from a stance on top of a large 2' ft. chockstone embedded in the floor of this alcove.

Begins with stemming moves on the reddish-colored face just right of a large twisting vertical off-width feature. Continue up the LEFT south facing side of the arête after a brief rest on a ledge, clipping three more bolts on the upper section. Jugs and hidden pockets, good movement.

Location 

This is the left-most route on the Southeast face of Kimball Canyon Crag. As you approach the crag from below TURN LEFT when you reach the base area and follow the access path, continuing to the left for 60-70 feet. A steep overhanging 12' face of a boulder blocks your view of the of this route from below so it's recommended that you and your partner go around and behind this feature, past a tree, to the left, and scramble up into an alcove 25 feet above the boulder and set up to belay just below the first bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts to a Chain Anchor slightly below the flat ledge on top. There are also 3 bolts RIGHT of the arête. This variation of the route is an unclimbed open project rated 5.11+ (shares the same anchor.)


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