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Sweet Dreams 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 260', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: gavinsmith on Oct 20, 2015

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Located in a provincial park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A Bon Echo classic, hands down.

p1: Scramble up the slab easily to its end, sticking towards the right side. Gear anchor. 5.3
p2: Move out left onto the face (look down, it's a fantastically exposed stance) and traverse left on good feet and somewhat crimpy hands. Use the pitons if you want, but at sometimes 50+ years old, they have a reputation for failure. Back them up. Continue to a right-facing corner and move up to a large ledge. Gear anchor (a variety of pitons are available as well). 5.6-5.7
p3: The big one. Move up the wall to climber's right on the ledge. Clip the colt a few metres up, towards the end of the crux. The difficulty tapers off a bit, but is fairly sustained. Follow the weakness first up and slightly left to a tree, then up and right to the top. Belay on gear on a big ledge or continue to the top. 5.9+, realistically 10a/b at the crux.

Location 

Sweet Dreams starts on the first pronounced slab ramp from the North end of the cliff.

Protection 

Standard rack to #2 Camalot. Full set of nuts.


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