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> S Platte
> Goose Creek/Mol…
> Sheeprock
> Smoking Sections
> Upper Smoking Section
Sweet Cigarillo
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 18
votes
Routes in Upper Smoking Section
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American Spirit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bali Shag S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bugler Arete S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Emphysema S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pipsqueak TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Cigarillo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zig-zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | D. Mabe and A. Dembik, June 2010 |
| Page Views: | 2,428 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Jun 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Sweet Cigarillo is a fun, classy, and moderate 2 pitch outing up the center of the Upper Smoking Section Formation.
P1. 5.8, 115'. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with 2 bolt belay, 11 bolts.
P2. 5.6, 115'. EDIT 2018: the original FA traversed the roof with gear, but now the pitch climbs above the belay and up to the roof with only bolts. Mantel the roof, and romp up easy slabs past a few more bolts to 2 bolt belay on a ledge, 8 bolts.
Have a picnic at a grassy bench at the top.
Do two raps down with one 70m rope. Watch your ends!
P1. 5.8, 115'. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with 2 bolt belay, 11 bolts.
P2. 5.6, 115'. EDIT 2018: the original FA traversed the roof with gear, but now the pitch climbs above the belay and up to the roof with only bolts. Mantel the roof, and romp up easy slabs past a few more bolts to 2 bolt belay on a ledge, 8 bolts.
Have a picnic at a grassy bench at the top.
Do two raps down with one 70m rope. Watch your ends!
Location
Start by a tree in the center of the formation. Scramble onto a flat perch from the left, just above the Pipsqueak slab.
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