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Sweet Cigarillo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D. Mabe and A. Dembik, June 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 14, 2010

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Sweet cigarillo. Ang Dembik photo.


Sweet Cigarillo is a fun, classy, and moderate 2 pitch outing up the center of the Upper Smoking Section Formation.

P1. 5.8, 120'. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with two rap bolts by a small, pathetic, burned tree. However, keep traversing left on the ledge/ramp to the base of a grunge filled crack. There is one bolt to supplement gear for a belay. I managed to garden out a good #1 Friend size piece near my feet, but there may be more options with a little digging, 11 bolts.

P2. 5.8, 120'. Climb an easy face left of the grunge crack with no pro until the roof traverse. (You might be able to dig out a placement in the grunge if you are inspired.) Continue right with excellent, undercling traversing along the overlap, with mostly finger-sized pro, until you can pull over at a weakness, protected by a bolt. Finish with a quick romp up easy slabs past a couple more bolts to 2 bolt belay on a ledge. Use shoulder length runners wisely to keep your drag down. Protect with a light SR to #1 Camalot (mostly TCUs), and 4 bolts.

Have a picnic at a grassy bench at the top.

Do two raps down with one 70m rope. Our rope was actually a 67m and just BARELY made both raps with stretch. So please be careful!!! Also, it is possible to walk off to the right, though it is not recommended.


Start by a tree in the center of the formation. Scramble onto a flat perch from the left, just above the Pipsqueak slab.


Bring only a small selection of pieces for the roof traverse, including a few TCUs/Aliens up to #1 Camalot, about a half dozen quickdraws, and half dozen shoulder length runners.

You can use one 70m rope!

Photos of Sweet Cigarillo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Smoking Section.  Blue: Emphysema (10+) Gree...
BETA PHOTO: Upper Smoking Section. Blue: Emphysema (10+) Gree...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter on the first pitch of Sweet Cigarillo, Upper...
Peter on the first pitch of Sweet Cigarillo, Upper...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of the traverse on P2.
Nearing the end of the traverse on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting out P2.
Starting out P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Angela finishing P1.
Angela finishing P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, and the ball and chain, makin' dust on P1.  ph...
Me, and the ball and chain, makin' dust on P1. ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: Planning the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Planning the first pitch.

Comments on Sweet Cigarillo Add Comment
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By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2016

The P2 anchor could use some work: it is 2 good bolts but had just a ratty sling through the bolt hangers (and a good quicklink as a masterpoint). We added a girth-hitched shoulder-length sling to each bolt, but quicklinks would be better on the bolt hangers, so the slings don't get torn. Probably quicklinks and chain (or just a couple links) would be the best long-term solution.

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