REI Community
Hobo Jungle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A No.1 S 
Band of Gypsies T 
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 
Bindlestiff T 
Boxcar Tourist S 
Cackleberry  S 
Calling In S 
Cat Wagon S 
Couch Surfer T 
Elk Sign S 
Frisk A Drag S 
Gandy Dancer S 
Grease the Tracks S 
High Hanging Biscuits S 
Hobo Hash S 
Hobophilia S 
Hobophobic S 
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 
Jolt Train T 
Jungle Buzzard  S 
Late For the Gravy Train T 
Lucky Streak S 
Mulligan Pie S 
Mulligan Stew S 
Mushfaker T 
Never Ending Night Train T 
Pie in the Sky T 
Possum Belly  S 
Railway Runaway S 
Redball S 
Road Sister S 
Shootin' Snipes T 
South of No North S 
Southern Exposure S 
Steel Reserve S 
Sweet Back S 
Sweet Back Direct S 
Tin Roof Sunday T 
Twist a Dream T 
Uberfall T 
Volt S 
Wanderer Over Yonder T 
Westbound Willy T 
Whistling Wabash, The S 

Sweet Back 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,576
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dean Hoffman sorting out the sweetness. Photo Chr...


A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples hobo living. This route features excellent, BOULDERY movement on good holds, and it's a great sports action route. For the grade it's some of the better dacite climbing around, and the rock quality is excellent.

Begin as for Tin Roof Sunday up the dihedral passing one bolt on the left, then continue up and left to a plank rest. Long draws on the first two bolts off the ledge will help your rope flow. When ready, punch through 25' of semi technical bouldering to a decent rest below the obvious bulge.

At the bulge, move up and left to some square cut jugs, then hard right to get the huge sidepull pinch, and then back left to the arête to gain the necessary compression. A few slaps up the arête should allow you to get your feet over the bulge. The next set of jugs and moves are priceless and it's wide open air at that point.


Towards the middle of the wall. Right of Hungry, Hungry Hobos, and to the left of Tin Roof Sunday.


9 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.

Photos of Sweet Back Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet Back tackles the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Back tackles the arete.

Comments on Sweet Back Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2012

I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2012

Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line...
By Aaron Townsley
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Mar 30, 2015

I've climbed the direct line a few times now, I hopped on Sweet Back just recently and it appears some holds broke off at the upper arete. There is a very obvious broken section. Unless I missed something (even after puzzled trouble shooting for 15 minutes) I think this route just jumped up a good leap in difficulty, I was unable to figure out a way to pull through this upper roof area to get up onto the slab. Darren, JJ, or anybody who climbs here often please let me know what your thoughts are when you get out there next?
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 30, 2015

Can't imagine what holds might have gave at the bulgy crux. I'll definitely take a look next time I'm out there.
By Aaron Townsley
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Apr 10, 2015

After talking with someone who has climbed it, I may have just been a bit confused as to how that section is done. Although there definitely seems like a section of rock on the bulgy arete gave out. either way i'd love to hear what you guys think next time you get out there.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 6, 2015

Snuck out there today, and all the holds are still there. It's not a straight forward crux, but it is pretty damn good once you figure out how to do it.
By Pablo-Roberts
From: Prescott, Arizona
Jun 20, 2016

Reading the description is confusing, as myself and 4 other people did not do the crux as described.

We all went left at the bulge, and used technical foot work and gaston crimps/pinches way out left of the smooth arete. ultimately either skipping the second to last bolt and going left up jugs or moving back right into the big jug to clip that bolt and straight up.

Regardless it still seemed 12-. Slippery pinches/gastons on the upper left.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 20, 2016

The route was bolted to climb the bulge straight on, through a compression crux. I've never seen anyone climb that far left Pablo, however I have seen a lot of folks get shut down at the bulge. Its an improbable set of moves until you just do it, but that's the way I've seen other people climb the route.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 21, 2016

According to my tick list I did this with you JJ. I remember using the crack I think and not being able to clip the bolt and running it out. Two weeks ago I did it staying left in the dihedral which was also fun and in the 12- range.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 21, 2016

I remember you climbing the bulge and then finishing on what is now the direct finish. I should probably add you on the FA;)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About