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The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
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A Big Tease  S 
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Entry Fee  S 
Good Die Young, The S 
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 
Hank Spire, The S 
Hanky Panky S 
Sweet as Hank S 
Tommy TwoTone S 

Sweet as Hank 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Collins, Route prepared and bolted by Chris Hatzai
New Route: Yes
Season: Golden eagle closure Feb 17 - Aug 1
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Chris Hatzai on Dec 4, 2015

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Sweet as Hank

  • February 1st to August 1st: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • 02/28/2017 to 08/31/2017: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Sweet as Hank 

    Sweet as Hank can be found on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall located by The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This single pitch overhanging route is located to the far left side of the wall starting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab gains access to the route.
    Start out high in the gully carefully clipping the first bolt. Face climb through spacey 5.11 moves up to bolt 6. After making an awkward clip, from here this is where the overhang climbing begins. Start to meander your way through the roof section starting out on good edges, quickly working into the crux section. A key sloping hold and a series of good edged crimps set you up to either bump, or cross through to good edged side pulls. Clip bolt 10, shake and set up for the final big throw off of a good sloping pinch and potenital quartzite undercling high above your head (very height dependent), throwing to a jug just above. Stick the dead point/dyno, clip bolt 11 and pull through on finishing jugs up to the permanent steel anchors.

    11 bolts, Fixed steel anchors

    Protection 

    11 Bolts, Fixed Steel Anchors

    Location 

    This route is located to the far left side of the Hank Wall sitting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab is required to access this route.


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