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Sweet Areta 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: Clif Loucks on Sep 20, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Shows TOP section of the tower at South Wall, Pali...

Description 

Slightly overhanging arete (~40 feet), located between MYSTERY Climb (8th in sequence on South Wall) and Beginner's Thruch (9th in sequence in Fossum, et al guide-book). Natural arete line that begs to be climbed. Don't use ledges on Thruch. Some loose blocks seem worrisome: handle with care. Sustained angle keeps one's attention at all times. Don't know if I'm FA; no evident signs of previous climbs. Various techniques required: Jams, layback, undercling, crimps, foot-matches, side-to-side switching, and a small but essential Thank-God hold; it's all there.

Location 

Arete just Right of Mystery Climb, Left of Beginner's Thruch, on attached square column on South Wall. Large tree at start of trail down from top and/or stone blocks serve as secure anchor points for TR.

Protection 

TR Recommended for G Rating; if leading, large Tri-cams & Hex-nuts on slick Sioux quartzite desired. No bolts are currently allowed at Palisades.


Photos of Sweet Areta Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Locate Sweet Areta between Mystery Climb and Begin...
BETA PHOTO: Locate Sweet Areta between Mystery Climb and Begin...

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By Sam Smolnisky
From: Custer, SD
Oct 31, 2012

Clif - This has been climbed before, just seen as a harder variation to Mystery Climb. Did you end up leading it?

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