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Sweet and Sticky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 262
Submitted By: Andrew Cheung on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Juggy start on the right side of an arete follows up balancy moves on the arete itself, finishing with thin footwork on the face supplemented by a slopey rail formed by the arete. Unique in that it begins in the shade and finishes in the sun; the difficulty ramps up once you move out of the shade.

Super comfortable belay seat in the crook of the burnt out tree.

While probably not run out by most standards, relatively to the rest of the routes at Exit 32, the gap between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is sizeable--don't fall, you'll probably hit the ground (not sure why it's this way...).

Unfortunately, viewable from the hiking trail, so you may receive a running commentary of your climb from passersby.


Follows the obvious arete coming from the burnt out tree. Scramble up to the belay (careful, it's mossy and slick). Rap or lower off the chains.


9 bolts plus chains at top

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By Ralph Bodenner
Aug 7, 2006

Small cams and nuts protect the runouts between bolts. Can lower with a 50m rope from the second anchor.
By Eric Hirst
Apr 10, 2016

The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge.

I believe the route is also now fully bolted; no serious runouts and no gear required.
By Ryan Nelling
Jun 19, 2016

There's a significant runout on easy ground between the 3rd and 4th bolt. A 0.4 BD cam can protect.
By cashmab
May 8, 2017

This is probably my favorite 5.9 at North Bend. Very fun arete route with almost alpine feel. A little soft for the grade, but the finish is a little delicate. Surprised most folks only give it 2 stars.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Aug 14, 2017

Horn can also be slung with a runner in lieu of placing a cam on run out (easy) climbing. It is quite the space w/o any pro though.

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