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Sweet and Low 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Sarah Taylor
Page Views: 4,987
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (194)
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LeAnn makes the clip on Sweet and Low


This climb starts just a few feet right of Birth Simulator, on the wall opposing the Chambered Nautilus. Jug hauling past new bolts gets you to the top.


bolts (6 or 7?) + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Sweet and Low Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope going up Unknown on Challenge Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Rope going up Unknown on Challenge Buttress

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 4, 2016
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 16, 2004
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

There is no way any of this feels like 5.7 - difficulty is nowhere near as hard as any of the 5.6 sport routes at Salt Lake Slips or Storm Mountain Island. 5.4 or maybe 5.5 feels about right.

Definitely agree that you could deck clipping the second bolt and that it probably should be a bit lower with an additional bolt above it. However, I can't imagine how you could fall while clipping it. Maybe not a great first lead, but a fine 4th or 5th lead.

I'll give it two stars because I can't think of a better sport route this easy in BCC.
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 16, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The route is also a bit dirty toward the top, with a bush in the bolt line, which is why we gave it only one star.
By Nathan Fisher
Oct 7, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not a 5.5, not a 5.7. How about 5.6. Anyway, it seemed to me to be a very squeezed route, that close to the crack (Birth Simulator). Very positive edges almost the entire way. It felt like 5.5 most of the way with a bit of 5.6 near the 3rd bolt. A great route for young ones and other beginners.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 9, 2005

I am the first to claim "squeeze job" normally, but since the birth simulator is a total crap pile that doesn't see any action anyway, this is probably not that bad. However...that being said, this is at most a 5.5/5.6. WAY easier than six apeal, or some other bolted 5.6's in the canyon. 5.5 at best, 5.7?? are you serious? were you intentionally skipping the jugs? What is sad is that someone spent some money equipping this silly thing, and coral bells (a classic and stiff for the grade!) is in serious need of a retro fit. Go figure.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2005

After sketching out a bit after the third bolt on Coral Bells, I jumped on this one as a little confidence builder, and found it to be a bit lacking in that due to the ease of the route......I understand 4th class and I understand 5.6....everything in between is kinda a blur, and that fell into the easier part of this blur for me....much easier than Six Appeal...easier than Italian, easier than Roll the Bones.....and comparing it to other nearby 5.6 offereings, there is no question.....Schoolroom?? Steort's?? Jig's up?? I headed up to Touch of Teflon to get my mojo back.
By Lee Gitlin
Aug 31, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Okay, fair enough. Reclimbed this route, and several other 5.6-5.7's and I must revise my rating. 5.5 seems more correct. The route is WAY easier than Becky's (5.7) and easier than the crux moves on Steort's. I maintain that missing the second clip could result in deckfall, regardless of how easy the route may be. Be aware, fledling leaders, and be careful.

Prior ratings revised accordingly. Beta not edited.
By Michael MacFadden
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Feels like a 5.5 for sure. If you stay to the right of the bolts its like walking up stairs. This would be a good first lead for a new leader.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I've actually climbed Birth Simulator...and it is a bit harder not to mention dirty as hell from never getting done and a gear climb in an area that is mainly 'sport'...I think this route is 5.5 at most...

Since no one is suggesting names, and I hate people confusing it with Birth Simulator (which is an entirely different route)...why not call it Birth Stimulator or Earth Simulator or some such?

In the end...I guess "that easy climb to the right of Birth Simulator" is good enough to communicate what and where you mean :)

Nobody knows who put this one up, eh? It's really, really popular!
By Tea
Oct 1, 2007

5.5 at best.
By tytonic
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 3, 2007

I've done this route a couple of times over the summer, and I'd have to say it's a little harder than the staircase at the mall. Since the easiest thing I've climbed is a 5.6, I can't give an accurate rating, but this is way easier than any local 5.6 sport route I've done. It's a good route if you are taking someone out for a first time climbing experience. I'm sure the easy climbing and easy access are the major factors contributing to its popularity.
By Gary Taylor
May 7, 2008

The name of this route is Sweet and Low. FA fall 2004 by Sarah Taylor (age 17).
By cdec
From: SLC, UT
May 17, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Certainly easy and well protected. A wonderful beginner lead on quailty rock. My 5 yr. old daughter Emma brownsited it. She said "the most fun thing I've ever done."
By Mike Abel
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I'm sort of a new leader--this was only my 7-8th lead. I actually enjoyed it quite a bit, and led it onsight (if that's worth anything on a 5.5) but I'm thinking 5.6 might be the grade. Definitely not 5.7 or 5.8. And the 2nd clip is extremely deckable, so watch that. I noticed that, but the holds are really good so I wasn't too worried... but it was nice to make that 2nd clip.
By Derek Newman
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 17, 2009

I totally know the girl that set this route- HUH!!!
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Easily 5.10- minus guys.
By Joseph Lascurain
From: Cincinnati
Apr 22, 2013

The bottom chain links are getting a bit sharp. Careful/ use your own gear and rap.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A 5.5 for the 5.7 leader. I think that for the brand-new leader, the bolting would be a touch unnerving. I was a little confused about the actual line, the boltline seemed to follow smaller edges. The difficulty eases considerably if you go onto the chalked up jugs out right, but the line on the smaller stuff is more rewarding, which makes the difficulty hard to gauge.
By Sean Henry Scott IV
From: salt lake city, ut
Mar 24, 2014

What is the point in arguing over the grade especially when it's 5.7 or below, if you can lead climb any route at any of the local gyms (or any gym in the country??) than you can do this. Virtually every clip is at or near a no hands rest (you could probably clip most draws with two hands). There is even a huge ledge at the top to clean from. I don't know what more you could ask for a beginner/first lead, other than maybe something more difficult (unless you literally have no idea how to mechanically clip the rope into the draw) because this definitely inspires false confidence. Just be warned that leading traditionally carries with it some sort of psychological aspect, not every bolt will be perfectly placed with a rest and not every bolt will be 10ft from the last - especially on slabs. If you are a brand new leader I would run several laps on this (or practice at a gym) before going onto routes that technically might be just as easy like six appeal...or just accept that you will fall (actually getting used to falling safely is probably the best way and will allow you to get onto the real fun stuff much quicker). That being said, it's still a good route and while easy, it doesn't feel like a chore like most 5.7-'s do, so if you're taking a group, this is perfect.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Easy there guys. This climb is easily below 5.7, no sense in arguing about that. Great for first time leader, and pretty hard to mess this one up. Simple, and somewhat lengthy. Everyones gotta learn to lead outside sometime. Just enjoy it.
By Tara Hansen
May 28, 2014

perfect beginner lead!
By Jake Jones 13
Jul 19, 2014

Good, easy climb. I decided to take a date with me on this climb. She had never climbed before and she only had a pair of tennis shoes. I led the climb and the chains and bolts are still in good condition. I belayed her by means of Top Rope and she was able to make it all the way to the top! It was a ton of fun for the both of us! I highly recommend this for beginners.
By Frank Anthony Nederhand
From: Salt Lke City, Utah
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you stay on route it is a 5.7. But you can make it 5.5 by going right to easier moves. It is more fun staying on route!
By The Real Ryan Murphy
Nov 4, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fun warm up route. Very easy, and would be a great first lead climb for someone.

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