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Sweet and Innocent 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: J. Schavone & D. Hare, 1982
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • Description 

    This route may only have one crux, but it has several places worthy of thinking over, and it may be VERY hard for short people.

    Start off of a rocky ledge accessed from the SW corner of the Goose or from below, via some chossy scrambling. Either way, mind the loose rock. Traverse out right to the base of a shallow, right-facing corner with a crack just left of it for about 1/2 of its length. Climb up the corner with a few small cams or nuts to start, and quickly gain a small ledge below a shallow 2" crack in the corner. Protect this on a 0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend and pull the first crux, a lieback off of a foot near the corner. This is ~5.10a if you are 5'10". If shorter, it could be quite a bit harder, as the foot will be gone before the next hand is reached....

    Continue above this on a higher mantle protected still by the same piece (now 8' down) to another reachy move...then get more gear.

    Continue up either the crack left of the corner or up the corner, being 2 meters apart, you can't reach both. The left side looked harder and in places lacked protection (sustained 5.9, PG-13) After another 40', the crack on the left ends, and you will step right if you have been climbing on that side. Continue up to the end of the corner and look up at a seam with a brief 2" pod in it. Climb up over the top of the dihedral, now ~40 meters up and if you must, bail down and right to 2 bolts where from you can rap with 2 ropes... .

    Or continue up to the pod on sidepulls and place a cam in it (#0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend). Swing right around the lip of the bulge (reachy, cruxy, perhaps hard for 5.10a even if tall) and pull over the top. If someone super-sized the holds on Kloeberdanz in Eldo, it would feel like this. Continue up and right on cracks past a lot of lichen and another bulge (or perhaps directly up the cleaner face above?), and join the ramp of the South Face after a total of 160'. Climb 50' additional on the ramp to the shelf below the true summit and the 2-bolts with coldshuts to belay. A 70m rope makes this easily into 1 pitch, but a 60m would be dubious, and the route is not well suited to simul-climbing.


    High on the South Face of the Goose, just right of the several sport routes just east of the Summit, this is the left-facing dihedral starting on a rocky ledge.


    A standard light rack, with two #2 Friends- 2 cruxes are protected by them.... Take some 2' slings for deviations in the path.
    This is sweet but far from innocent. The gear is acceptable but not everywhere and not always straightforward. A fall could present a hazard for a non-technician.

    Comments on Sweet and Innocent Add Comment
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    By Dougald MacDonald
    Oct 21, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A very good climb, with a couple of cruxes. You can place a small wire or RP before doing the mantel that Tony describes at the top of the first crux. I chose the right-hand of the twin cracks that Tony mentions, and it was pleasant and well-protected 5.8 or so. We belayed right after the upper crux bulge, then traversed up and left along strata, passing a bolted anchor (possible rap descent with two ropes), to reach rap anchors near the south summit of the Goose. This was fun, airy 5.6 or 5.7 climbing.

    The upper crux felt like solid 5.10 to me.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Oct 25, 2015

    This is a wild line that is well worth doing. The PG-13 bit is definitely the committing layback down low (feels like 10b there), but the moves pulling over the final roof at the top of the crack system felt like 10+, though better protected. After that, wild, runout 5.8 and 5.9 climbing on occasionally lichenous and friable rock take you to the summit. Awesome exposure and position on the upper part of the last pitch. This route doesn't seem to get done much but should.

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