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The Prudential
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El Funko S 
Finland S 
Full Premium, The S 
Half Premium, The S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Mission Accomplished S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Prudential Crack T 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Unknown  S 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Swedish Girls 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 5/01
Page Views: 1,685
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Torie getting cozy in the middle of the steep pert...


A really fun route that is worth the hike out to the "far" reaches of Rumney. not your classic, Rumney climb. The crux is slopey and the feet are poor, but somehow it's so sweet.

Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge.

From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.

This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.


The far left route on the ledge on the left side of The Prudential. Traverse left from the belay bolt to start.


8 bolts to anchor.

Photos of Swedish Girls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jakob on the big rounded flake at the start of the...
Jakob on the big rounded flake at the start of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: this is where the hand holds seem to run out.... t...
this is where the hand holds seem to run out.... t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jakob workin out the crux...
Jakob workin out the crux...

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There is an alternate start to this that I bolted that comes up the wall below to add some nice moderate climbing before you jump right into the cruxy start of the original way. This was the left most line on the lower wall ( glue-ins) but a lower bolted start to boar war may have been added since. The next 3 lines to the rt on this lower wall are ones that I wouldn't recommend: first, Measured Doses, a nondescript route with (to my mind)an oddly bolted finish. Second, a sharp, half cleaned, nasty, trad route that I did, with a bolted anchor (Ugly Crack), and finally a sharp sport route, Short and Sharp, that is right above a patch of rare plants that may not be visible part of the year, so please don't climb this or disturb the base area
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 16, 2010

I climbed this route again today and cant see how it got down graded in the new guide book.... i would have accepted an up grade more easily, thought the original 5.10d was just right...
By JohnnyG
Nov 14, 2011

The lower start is really good.
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Deceptively tough albeit short crux. I think .10d is right especially when there was no chalk on any of the holds around the crux.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jun 5, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'm with Lee and Soon—5.10d. I'm also curious . . . have any 5.10 leaders on-sighted this route? Good luck with that!

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