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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stuart Chamberlain, Richard Meining
Page Views: 8,205
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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BETA PHOTO: Another view of Sweat in the late afternoon.

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>


Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain links), or continue to a second set (rap anchors) located up and slight right from the ledge. To descend, rap with a single rope back to the base. Easily one of the best 5.7s in the park.


Light trad rack with cams to a #3 Camalot. Choice of two 2-bolt anchors at the top.

Photos of Sweat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Camalot #3 needed for first placement above the li...
BETA PHOTO: Camalot #3 needed for first placement above the li...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thors first 5.7 lead
Thors first 5.7 lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweat
Rock Climbing Photo: TR on Sweat
TR on Sweat
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweat
Rock Climbing Photo: Rod TR'ing Sweat.
Rod TR'ing Sweat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweat
Rock Climbing Photo: Orlando Teran in the thick of it
Orlando Teran in the thick of it

Comments on Sweat Add Comment
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By ben bryan
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Dec 17, 2006

Awesome early trad lead. Pro is easy, and route fun. Buzzards roost in the area...
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007

Not to be confused with the "Buzzards roost" area...

but yeah, there's a lot of poop
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 11, 2009

that is a sick lookin crack
By Jennifer Barton
From: Champaign, IL
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you don't have "man hands" to make it a fist crack, the first 10 feet is a more interesting offwidth. A #4 Camalot can provide some comfort in the first 5-10 feet of the crack. This was my favorite route of the trip.
By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 28, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

First trad lead many years ago. I remember being so scared that I placed a piece every 2ft or so. I did it last year and placed maybe 4-5 pieces.
By Doug Meneke
May 10, 2013

The first 10-20 feet is offwidth. However, you can layback and "sit" on the rock. You can also reach in DEEP, and there is a bottom to the crack that has a lip. A good, fun solo, too.

This is also the area for easy access to the ledge up top to setup/rap-down French Route/Fly on a Windshield, Stranger than Friction, Texas Radio, and other backside classics.
By William Kramer
From: Kemmerer, WY
Apr 22, 2014

Fun crack, starts as OW and ends as finger, protects easy, used a #3 camalot, a #2 camalot, and a #12 stopper. Will suggest going to anchors for Pro Choice on the right, anchors on the left you have to jump cracks under that overhanging rock on top, then over to a little ledge. Easy, just don't like it cause I hit my head on thus stated rock.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Sep 18, 2014

Fantastic easy crack!! As mentioned above, the wider section in the beginning can be overcome by getting in deep and using the flake/layback, but why not hone your technique on this low angle beauty? Especially for aspiring crackheads-- lead it, set a TR and work it. Get a feel for fists and then slam some jams!

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