Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Beinn Trilleachan - Etive Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Long Reach, The T 
Pinch - Direct Start, The T 
Spartan Slab T 
Swastika T 

Swastika 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 650'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: M Noon, E Taylor, June 1957
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The last steep, and often damp, pitch of Swastika.

Description 

The hardest climbing on the route is on the very last pitch - it is well protected and steep, unlike anything else on the route. The lower slabby pitches are very committing.

1. Climb up the right crack until a ledge and belay.

2. Move up the slab and rightwards and belay below a small overlap.

3. Climb up and over the bulge to below the large overhang formed by the slab above.

4. Climb up to the overlap, and using good holds gain a standing position on the lip of the overlap. Now step gingerly left along the 'moustache' until possible to belay.

The next 2 pitches are not technically difficult but they are committing in nature. A cool and positive approach is rewarded.

5. Climb up the faint right trending groove towards the quartz band.

6. Continue up the groove to below the overlap.

7. Climb up to the overlap and move left through it, and then up to the base of a right facing corner.

8. Climb the steep and technical corner. This pitch is unlike any other on the climb, well protected but technically hard.

Descent is by the path slightly up and to the right of the finish.

Location 

120 ft left of the coffin stone, below the right of two parallel cracks.

Protection 

Trad Gear


Photos of Swastika Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the first pitch of Spartan, The Long Re...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Spartan, The Long Re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Running it out on pitch 4 of Swastika (5.10c R), E...
Running it out on pitch 4 of Swastika (5.10c R), E...

Comments on Swastika Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -