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Swan Slab
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5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 
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Bay Tree Crack T 
Bobcat Crack T,TR 
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Oak Tree Crack T,TR 
Oak Tree Flake T 
Penelope's Problem T 
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 
Pin Scar Seams T 
Seamilicious TR 
Swan Slab Chimney T 
Swan Slab Gully T 
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 
Ugly Duckling T 
Unknown Arete T,TR 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 
Unnamed Face Route TR 
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 
V-Crack T,TR 
West Slabs TR 

Swan Slab Squeeze 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,644
Submitted By: Will S on May 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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From the ground. Oak Tree Flake visible at right.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This short squeeze chimney, located just above and left of Oak Tree Flake, grows slightly more difficult the higher you climb and provides good practice for someone new to the wide. There are helper holds along the outside edge and face with a crux at a slight constriction where your hips may have to come out for a move. You can easily reach the top of the climb to set a TR by scrambling up from the left, this is also the downclimb although you could rap from trees at the top if desired.


The route begins after the initial 15' or so of the dirty/blocky chimney just left of the giant oak tree that marks the start of the Oak Tree Flake route. Climb the initial chimney and look up to the left for the obvious, clean, right facing squeeze. Descend by downclimbing through 4th class terrain to climber's left or rap off the trees.


Solo or TR. A secure solo, #4 bigbro might work on lead, there are plenty of options for a TR anchor.

Photos of Swan Slab Squeeze Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cyril
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the start.
Looking up from the start.

Comments on Swan Slab Squeeze Add Comment
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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 1, 2010

You get to stare right at the Steck-Salathe while digging out the chicken wings and heal-toe jams on this one!
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Led this yesterday. A questionable #6 Camelot works 1/4 of the way up the crack if you place it deep. A bomber microcam works in the horizontal seam on the left at about 3/4 of the way up. Although you can climb most of this on the face outside, if you actually stay in the Squeeze fairly deep it is very secure and doesn't seem runout. I don't think it would have felt any worse if I only placed the TCU and no Camelot.

[2016 update] Led it again. A 0.3 BD C4 is bomber in the small crack 3/4 up. Really all you need for the lead. Bring some medium gear for an anchor on top and down climb the backside.
By Lana dude
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Not a good climb for a 5.7 leader. Not much protection. No rap anchors on top of pillar. scrambled down a tree to get off.

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