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The Swamp
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Swamp Thing S 

Swamp Thing 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 419
Submitted By: edwin on May 15, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Red slings visible at the top of Swamp Thing

Description 

Climb directly up to the first bolt and mantle onto a stance. Step onto terrible feet (crux) and continue up crimps to a climactic jump at the last bolt.

Great moves but marred by flaky rock. Bring a good brush.

Location 

It's possible to set up a TR on this or any other face by soloing up the easy south slab. Slings (good condition as of 5/09) on the anchors provide a quick rappel.

Protection 

Three bolts (last is 1/4") optionally supplemented by wires on old studs


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By Will Sidney
From: paradise
Nov 15, 2016

Sure it is a small route on a boulder. In fact, it is effectively a 15 foot tall boulder problem between stances. However, it is a hard, well protected, slab route with fun moves making it a nice place to study this style of climbing without having to worry about a big runout. I used a nut on the rivet at the crux and clipped the three protection bolts. Give 'er!