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M.O. T 
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Swamp Thing T 

Swamp Thing 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Harrington et. al. GU 1978
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Kevin Friedrich on Apr 20, 2007

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Swamp thing is apparently the first route in the Gorge, but more importantly it is one of the most exciting routes i've done at the place. It starts off the little pole-bridge that crosses to the dihedrals, and follows a hand crack that widens to a fun off-width section. From this a bolt protects a cruxy and somewhat dirty corner crux. After passing this crux a splitter, proud, and elegant hand crack awaits, which leads into a intriguing bomb-bay of lose blocks. The belay for this bad boy is an old sling between two 1/4" bolts. Bring your own sling if you feel like it, it may be a good idea.


Right in the middle of cracked towers, this line is proud and easily identified.


The book says gear to 3.5". But pro that's 3-3.5" you wouldn't want to stick in since the wide places are kinda loose. 1 bolt exists halfway up the route and the anchor is an old school american triangle with 2 1/4' bolts. Wear a helmet.

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By Jonathan Howland
Apr 30, 2007

...And -- more important -- have your belayer wear a helmet. And once the leader gets 20 feet off the deck, stand to the side (up and to the right), as the shower of pebbles and debris is more appealing from this vantage.
ST is easier and (much dirtier) than Silence/Poodles if a little more interesting to protect, but, in any case, a must-do on account of its being historic.
One of the bolts has a rap ring on it.

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