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Cliffs of Insanity
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Swamp Rat 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jason Roy 2008
Page Views: 4,969
Submitted By: Markus Jobman on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (100)
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Putting up the anchors. Cliffs of Insanity has som...

Description 

Starts to the South of the Large Pillar rock formation. The belay is directly south of the Pillar rock. Start up the face through some finger ledges.
Mossy route, but solid.

Location 

Route is located on the North Facing Wall.

Protection 

7 bolts with anchors


Photos of Swamp Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great view at the top of Swamp Rat
Great view at the top of Swamp Rat
Rock Climbing Photo: My friend's selfie, but me way up on Swamp Rat. It...
My friend's selfie, but me way up on Swamp Rat. It...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Swamp Rat
Unknown climber on Swamp Rat
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on Swamp Rat
Adam on Swamp Rat
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily, Al & the porn stash belay.
Emily, Al & the porn stash belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Swamp Rat. A great canyon view awaits ...
Starting up Swamp Rat. A great canyon view awaits ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the jugs of Swamp Rat.
Looking down at the jugs of Swamp Rat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Grabbing some rest on the way to the top.
Grabbing some rest on the way to the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: What a view you get!
What a view you get!
Rock Climbing Photo: At bolt 6 (or 5?)
At bolt 6 (or 5?)
Rock Climbing Photo: route photo
route photo

Comments on Swamp Rat Add Comment
Show which comments
By michaeltarne
Mar 4, 2012

Fun incuts, good bolts, tons of exposure for HCR. Great view from the top.
By Spenser Bolte 1
From: Abilene, Texas
Mar 27, 2014

My favorite 5.8 at the ranch and one of the better in AR. This is not great for toproping groups though. Bit of a swing.
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lots of exposure, great views and fun climbing. Hard to ask for more!
By Kyle Goodnow
From: Columbus, Ohio
Jul 12, 2015

Easy climbing with some great holds. Fantastic view at the top, favorite 5.8 at the ranch
By Lexi J
From: Texas
Dec 9, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Long and sustained. A really great climb if you want a beautiful view as a reward for sending!
By Zachary Burton
Jan 27, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is overall a fantastic route. The majority of the route seemed a little easier than a 5.8, but after the last bolt you hit the crux of the route. Fantastic views, sustained climbing, and overall just a great time.
By Michael Parker
From: Tulsa, OK
Oct 18, 2016

An ultra classic and possibly the best 5.8 at HCR. A few stemming moves at the start leads into amazing climbing between horizontal ledges and even provides a little exposure when you get near the top. There is almost always a line, it took several trips to HCR before I was able to finally jump on this route. If you ever see it empty, you better take advantage and send it.