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Swamp King Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 525'
Location: 41.14552, -74.16878 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 765
Administrators: SMarsh, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Sep 27, 2014
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Right side routes of Swamp King wall (as of 2014)

Description 

Nice slab climbing in the 5.7 to 9+ range, on Top-Rope with a long static line.
Shady pleasant environment (when it's dry). Page 89 in the 2011 Crefeld guidebook 2nd edition. But ...

Small, not much more than 20 feet high, and (as of 2014) needs some cleaning. Go there when you're sure it's dry, otherwise the base would likely be "swampy".

Top of the less-than-vertical wall has a nice well-defined edge for setting up top-ropes, but not many Trad gear placements near that edge, so best to have a long static line (50 feet / 15 meters) for most of the routes.

Many potential holds have moss on them or nearby, so might want to bring a brush or other tools for cleaning -- but lots of fun interesting moves even as it is (in 2014).

Getting There 

Driving from New York City or New Jersey or PA: Go to the giant interchange of routes NY Thruway 87, 287, and 17 near Suffern NY. Exit onto rt 17 North, which immediately goes into a traffic light. Turn sharp Right on rt 59 South for about 0.5 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Driving from NY state coming from the North: NY Thruway (I-87) south to exit 15A for rt 17 North + rt 59, Sloatsburg + Suffern. Exit to the right, go 0.1 mile curving right to reach a T intersection. Turn Right (NorthEast) and go about 0.2 mile to another T intersection. Turn Right (South) and go about 0.4 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Park by some 10-15 ft wide wire fence enclosures (sometimes called "the vents") and a green manhole cover, on the left (west) side of the road --
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1415 W74.1618)
This is about 100 yards before (south from) the left turn for Torne Brook Rd. If you reach the entrance for the waste management facility on the right, you've gone too far.

Walking - about +200 vertical feet uphill over 0.7 mile distance (+60m uphill over 1.1km):
From the parking, walk North 100 yards on Torne Valley Rd. Turn left (West) on Torne Brook Rd and walk 50 yards across new bridge over creek. Turn right (North) onto dirt road uphill and go 0.2 mile to an intersection. Turn sharp left on dirt road and go SW about 0.1 mile to another intersection. Take the right fork onto dirt road which later becomes a hiking trail (marked by white diamonds). Go about 0.25 mile first NW then W then NW -- at first open tree-less, past a high electric power tower, then into the woods, mostly gentle, continuing past another trail which turns off right.

Where the main trail goes uphill north (and reaches Basilisk Wall in another 100 yards) - (at GPS lat long ~ N41.1452 W74.1677) - turn off left onto a vague trail. Go about 100 yards gentle past various small cliffs and boulders. Swamp King wall is on the right -- about 22 feet (6.5 meters) high with a two-feet-thick tree lying fallen across its base.
GPS lat long ~ (N41.1455 W74.1688)

Climbing Season

For the Powerlinez area.

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Swamp King
Rock Climbing Photo: Frog Spot on the right side of Swamp King wall

Frog Spit 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New York : Powerlinez : ... : Swamp King
Up to the two left-leaning cracks, finish at the small tree. warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2014. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt)....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Swamp King Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Swamp King wall - showing all routes as of 2014
BETA PHOTO: Swamp King wall - showing all routes as of 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side routes of Swamp King wall
BETA PHOTO: Left side routes of Swamp King wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Swamp King approach from East
BETA PHOTO: Swamp King approach from East

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