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Swamp Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Dallas Branum on Jul 2, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Swamp Crack

Description 

Climb #18: Swamp Crack (~5.7+, 65’) Same start as route Easy Access. Follow low angle crack up and right until it joins a steeper crack system/small gully that goes straight up. Get established in the wide crack and progress upward to the base of block-like shield that has hand-holds on both sides. Work your hands up on the right and/or left sides of the block, then transition back left into
the crack/gully and follow it the rest of the way up to the webbing around a tree. Check condition of webbing and walk off if they’re in poor condition (or replace if possible).

Alternate ~5.9 (on TR): Climb up left of the crack/gully on sharp face crimps towards a bulging face with lichen. Transition back into the gully at the lichen (crux) and finish up the last 10-15 feet the same as Swamp Crack.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


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