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Discovery Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 
Big Pucker, The T,S 
Broken Arrow S 
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 
Buffalo Soldier T 
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cosmos S 
Dead Bird Crack T 
Entrance T,S 
Fat Lips T,S 
Fly By T,S,TR 
Holiday Ordeal TR 
Jorgie's Crack T 
Lithium S 
Lost Horizons T 
Mammary Pump S 
Melvin S 
Nailbox Crack T 
Ordeal T 
Pistol Whipped S 
Plague T,S 
Portent T,TR 
Power Point S 
Racing Stripes T,S 
Straight Up T 
Stupendous Man T 
Swallow Crack T,S 
Trauma T 
Trial S 
Verdict (direct), The S 
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 

Swallow Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave and Phil Bircheff, 1965
Page Views: 7,299
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Swallow Crack

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is located un the middle of the east face of the discovery wall, uphill where the climbers path begins to flatten out. From the path, head up about 15 feet to a large open area, where you will find the bulge that leads to the Swallow Crack.

Start on a bulgy face that leads to a wide left faced crack on a slab where excellent hands and feet are available. There is certainly some rock that will eventually pull out on this route, so use caution! After the crack, move left to the bolt, and climb some class 4 rock that will lead you to the top of the Discovery Wall.

This route is about 90 feet long, and due to the leftward movement of the route, top roping this roue either requires some interesting directionals and a long rope, or some ballsy climbers. A fall on a top rope from the anchors will swing you about 50 feet left and crash you into the slabby section of Fly-By (5.9+), the next climb over.


Bring some Friends for the crack, and you will find 2 pitons and a bolt along the way. Old pitons are not to be trusted however, so if you're uncertain, add some more pro!

Photos of Swallow Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Swallow Crack
BETA PHOTO: Swallow Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Karl rapping off Discovery Wall after climbing Swa...
Karl rapping off Discovery Wall after climbing Swa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trans taking a moment to chalk up about halfway up...
Trans taking a moment to chalk up about halfway up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean heading up Swallow Crack
Sean heading up Swallow Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael coming up Swallow Crack
Michael coming up Swallow Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: John K leading Swallow Crack
BETA PHOTO: John K leading Swallow Crack

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By Karl Royer
Sep 11, 2003

This was my first "trad" climb. A single pitch, with good to great foot placements on the face of the crag/route. Some pro left by other climbers are in place with a couple of strategically placed bolts makes this an excellent place to practice trad climbing.
By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006

Another OK route.
By Lisa E
Mar 29, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A fun route.
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

You can rappel down from rap rings on the large boulder directly above this climb. A 60m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare.
By Matthew Geyer
Aug 11, 2008

A great crack for placing gear, two old pins that still appear bomber and a monster exit muffin...add to it all that in the summer the routes get afternoon shade, a big airy rap from the large boulder on top when it's done, everything one could ask for.
By Laws
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 19, 2009

This was my first outdoor climb, ever. The crack is generous and makes for a fun and quick route. Since you're using the crack most of the way up, you're not tapping on rock as much as other routes at Pinnacles. Still, beware falling rock - helmets are always handy. A great first-timer's climb.
By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Jan 23, 2013

This was our first outdoor climb and first wall.
I recommend this to every outdoor beginner climber.
It wasn't too hard, but hard enough for me to proceed slowly and feel the rocks. You will be able to get comfortable on this rock.
By Nicole BI
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 22, 2014

Does anyone know what type of bolt hanger that is on top, climber's right of the two anchor bolts?
By Beau Griffith
From: Fresno, CA
Mar 6, 2017

This was also my first trad lead and although it was a little scary (I was a little psyched out from all the beta out there about how terrible the rock quality us), it was a LOT of fun.

Some information/updates on previous questions/beta:
-The only fixed pro I found was a piton about halfway up the crack, and the bolt just above the end of the crack.
-Anchors on the top are oddly places but serviceable. One a metolius hangar, the other an old rusty angle-iron.
-The beta regarding top-roping being logistically difficult without some serious redirects is correct. Rope drag causes an issue and is just generally difficult. It is doable though, but make sure your second can handle some creativity when lowering to reset the redirects.
-Rock quality on this climb appears good. I did not find anything loose or suspect on the line itself. Went a little bit off route on TR and there were a couple crumblies but nothing awful.

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