REI Community
Shady Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A - Route T 
B - Route T 
Back-Scratcher T 
Banana Splits T,TR 
Battle of the Bulges T 
Bolted Chimney T,S 
Depth Charge T 
Flea Protein 
Kestrel T 
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 
Meanderthon T 
Monoculture TR 
Nothing to prove T 
Pebble Steps T 
Peregrine TR 
Proving Ground T 
Rotten Reality T 
Swainson TR 
This is not a test T 
Torpedo T 
Uncle Wriggly T 
Width of Reason T 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This short top-rope is a good quick climb to finish off your afternoon at Cueva. The anchors are easily accessible and it has a great view over the Rio Grande Valley. That said, it's not a spectacular climb. At first glance, one notices many signs that holds have broken off. In actuality, the holds are all solid and I don't think more rock will be torn off unless you start to meander from the route.

The climb takes a vertical line up a short face, utilizing a few hidden,deep, and narrow pockets.


Find this climb on the north side of the western-most spit of rock at Cueva. The climb isn't obvious from the ground; there are two climbable crack systems on this wall, and Swainson is to the west of both of these. The best way to find the climb is to scramble up to the anchors. Reaching the anchor requires easy 5th class scrambling along the easy western-most slabs.


The top-rope anchor for this route consists of two 3/8" bolts. They are set back 10 feet from the sloping lip so bring some webbing to extend the anchor.

Comments on Swainson Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Hobson
From: Clinton, TN
Jan 3, 2009

Almost three years after I first climbed this route, I was back there today with the OMTRS. A couple people jumped on our top-rope and the consensus was that the crux is the lower section. There are some balancy moves on top of the first bulge/hold which spit most people off. Also of note was that we were able to back-up the bolts using pink and brown tricams about 20 ft further back from the bolts.
By Aaron Hobson
From: Clinton, TN
Feb 26, 2009

Both of the 1/4" bolts were replaced last weekend.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About