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Avery Peak
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SW Face T 

SW Face 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 2500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Summer/Early Fall
Page Views: 1,199
Submitted By: Eric Klammer on Nov 23, 2013

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Heading down. What a view!

Description 

A direct line to the summit of Avery Peak, this route begins in the gully below the red slab before shooting directly up the SW face to the summit. The underlying stone on this route is surprisingly solid but is covered in loose rocks big and small. Helmets are a good idea. Cool rock and great scrambling throughout make this a fun outing, and the views at the top are hard to beat. If you like your slabaneering with an extra helping of choss, this route is for you!

Begin by scrambling the gully, with a short but steep corner to keep you on your toes. Continue up on solid rock and big blocks to the base of the SW face. The next 100'-200' are the best on the route. Quickly climb the perfect slab, trending left at the top to get out from under the death rubble perched above you. From here, carefully continue up on worse rock, gradually trending right until reaching the South ridge. Follow the ridge the last couple hundred feet to the summit.

To descend, head back down the South ridge, and when possible, drop into the basin on your left. Follow the trail at the valley bottom all the way back to 317.

Location 

From the Avery Peak parking area follow the old road towards the large, red face. After completing a few switchbacks you will intersect with trail #401 and soon after will cross the gully. Head up the gully.

Protection 

Helmet, rock dodging skills.


Photos of SW Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit!
Summit!
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending the S ridge.
Descending the S ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing slab! Just try to ignore the large blocks ...
Amazing slab! Just try to ignore the large blocks ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last section of the face before gaining the su...
The last section of the face before gaining the su...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of the gully.
Nearing the end of the gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: On the face at last!
On the face at last!
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxy corner on the way to the main face. Great ro...
Cruxy corner on the way to the main face. Great ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the many small rock steps in the gully lead...
One of the many small rock steps in the gully lead...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the gully. Not the place to be when it...
Starting up the gully. Not the place to be when it...
Rock Climbing Photo: General route outline. Red up, blue down.
General route outline. Red up, blue down.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...

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