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The Phallus
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Phallus, The T 
SW Face T 

SW Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3 R

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3 R [details]
FA: Peter Geyser
Season: desert season (year round)
Page Views: 963
Submitted By: Matt Pickren on Jan 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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As high as we got on The Phallus.

  • Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the same route that Todd Gordon has posted. The only difference is that it can now, and maybe has already?, go clean. I only thought it important to post a new route because it felt slightly more serious than C2, which some may mistakingly assume after reading A2, that was the old rating prior to D.P. (the nailing ban).

    The R sections felt like the first 30 feet when nothing inspired all that much confidence. As well as after free climbing right after two bolts. The fall looked relatively clean onto 2 okay looking bolts, I just wasn't feeling like testing that theory.

    Overall, thin and challenging on soft, dirty rock.


    Look for obvious dong. Climb thin "crack" on south west-corner.


    Lots of small gear. Brass and aluminum offsets, tri-cams and small (black thru red x3) aliens. Anchor on top is surprisingly good. With fresh red cordelette equalized as off 1-18-09.

    Comments on SW Face Add Comment
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    By Geoff Unger
    From: Moab, UT
    Dec 11, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 R

    Just did this thing today. I had always admired it from the road and never went over to climb it. Before reading Matt's post(and not knowing that it had seen a clean ascent before), I rated it exactly the same way. 5.9 C3 R. You definitely do not want to blow it early on and there is some sporty free climbing at the traverse. I ended up free climbing the whole section after the bolts to below the cap rock and it got my attention. Our idea was to do a day of 'easy' free climbing towers in the park, but it didn't turn out that way. Aiders would have made a big difference.
    By jakobi
    From: moab, utah
    Dec 15, 2010

    Just to clear things up this route is on the south face of the tower.
    By Matt Glue
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2014

    Tried this on 4/8. I had led a few pitches of C2 and under, and figured I'd try a C3. Wow! Big mistake. 2 hours of utter terror to go the 30 feet above the free climbing. I bailed at the bolts; my mind was totally fried. Did Zenyatta Endtrada the next day with no problem. Big difference between C2+ and C3. Maybe someday...

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