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SW Buttress T 

SW Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bill Coe, George Zack - 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: George Zack on Apr 11, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: SW Buttress route topo


A long, clean, well-protected 5.6 climb with a single 5.9 move and an amazing summit belay position.

P1: Start up a crack leading into a low mini-roof at the toe of the buttress, then clip a bolt at 30' off the deck before making the single 5.9 crux move of the route. Continue up the crest of the buttress, using incipient crack systems for protection along the way, and generally taking the path of least resistance to reach the very large belay ledge and bolted anchor. 110', 5.9

P2: Climb up past the small trees (just above the anchor) to their right to a small dirty ledge. Your goal from here is to round the corner that is up and to your left. After a couple of exposed, but well protected moves around the corner, pull up onto the large ledge. Surmount the final short summit block directly ahead via your choice of cracks and belay from the bolted anchor in the shallow notch. 110', 5.6

Descend by walking off the East side of the pinnacle.


Starts at the toe of the SW buttress of the pinnacle. Reach it by skiing down the white talus slope on the downhill side of the Central Pinnacle and turning north to the buttress.


A set of nuts and single cams from .5-3 is sufficient. Bring doubles in .75-2 if you really wanna sew it up (hexes in this range also work well).

Photos of SW Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: George and Jenna on the SW Buttress
George and Jenna on the SW Buttress

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