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SW Arête T 

SW Arête 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on May 3, 2016

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Coming up pitch 5 of the SW Arête

Description 

Great rock with memorable pitches, a short approach from a hut, fairly easy climbing, good trail on approach and egress, tram instead of 3k' vert approach...all account for a bit of popularity of this fine route.

Find the dihedral on the left side of the bottom most toe of the SW face.

P1: climb the dihedral with a slight bend to the left. Up over a bit of broken terrain to a chain anchor on the flat face. 40m 5.5-ish.

P2: Up a lower angle flake with big holds and follow the crack ramp up to the right past some bushes. 40m 5.4.

P3: Climb up and where the rock gets steep, head right, then back left. 40m 5.4.

P4: Up a crack then slightly right up the face to a terrace. 30m 5.5.

P5: Up a steep bit, then, spikey fun lower angle face to a pinch belay (thread the pinch for an anchor) right on the SW arête proper. 30m 5.5.

P6: Step up, clip a bolt, then up on Toulumne-esque knobs and clip another bolt. Continue up to the top with an interesting move or two. Might seem a bit runout on unprotected face climbing. 15m 5.7.

P6 variation: possible to escape the last, steep pitch by traversing around to the north on easy terrain (easy 5th class). Avoids the somewhat intimidating last pitch.

This route climbs amazingly fast for a competent party of two. A couple of hour jaunt up fine rock.

Location 

Route starts on the left side of the toe of the SW ridge/face, left of a few single pitch routes which share a single anchor. Also starts well left of the also popular Piccolo (5c obl).

Descent for most folks is a single 50m rappel from an anchor on the SE side of the summit blade ridge. This anchor can possibly be extended back over to the NE which makes for an easier start (rather than swinging around onto the steep face).

Rumor to be an option to down climb, first to the north, then down left towards the valley followed by a right traverse to a chimney which leads to the deck.

Protection 

There's a few bolts on some of the pitches, and, several bolted belay anchors. If very comfy at the grade, the cruxes are fairly well protected if a bit runout. Most folks will want a sprinkling of cams and maybe a couple of nuts. Otherwise, 6 draws, 6 double length slings oughta do it.


Photos of SW Arête Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol admires the summit blade of the SW Arête
Carol admires the summit blade of the SW Arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4 of the SW Arête
Pitch 4 of the SW Arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinch belay anchor on pitch 5 of the SW Arête
Pinch belay anchor on pitch 5 of the SW Arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch 4 of the SW Arête
Start of pitch 4 of the SW Arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 belay on the SW Arete
Pitch 3 belay on the SW Arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol gets the rope up there on the second pitch o...
Carol gets the rope up there on the second pitch o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up the first pitch on the SW Arête
Coming up the first pitch on the SW Arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol sussing out the last and crux pitch of the S...
Carol sussing out the last and crux pitch of the S...

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